Skil 100 mods

I just got a virgin skil 100. It’s only the 5.5 amp…but still happy to find one at a good price (less than 2 hitchi’s). I don’t think I am going to cut the base, but should I fill the holes? Also, should I take a file to the hard edges. I am planing on taking it apart and cleaning the brushes and putting in new bearings. Does anyone have a source for bearings? The belt blades seem to be ok. As far as the shoe goes/depth adjustment goes…It has the friction plate (don’t know if this is the correct term?) adjustment. Should I take off the shoe and take this part out, or file down the little groves. I have used other’s skils and never really asked about this modification. I am also curious about the trigger. Is there a good way to lock the trigger? I appreciate any and all suggestions…Thanks again!!!

I just got a virgin skil 100. It’s only the 5.5 amp…but still happy to > find one at a good price (less than 2 hitchi’s). I don’t think I am going > to cut the base, but should I fill the holes? Also, should I take a file > to the hard edges. I am planing on taking it apart and cleaning the > brushes and putting in new bearings. Does anyone have a source for > bearings? The belt blades seem to be ok. As far as the shoe goes/depth > adjustment goes…It has the friction plate (don’t know if this is the > correct term?) adjustment. Should I take off the shoe and take this part > out, or file down the little groves. I have used other’s skils and never > really asked about this modification. I am also curious about the trigger. > Is there a good way to lock the trigger?>>> I appreciate any and all suggestions…Thanks again!!! There is a lot of stuff in the archives on this but whatever you do DO NOT fill in the holes in the base.If you do this you will never be able to get the motor or front shoe off.Get belts from skil or Fiberglass Hawaii.As for bearings just take the old ones to bearing supply house and they can replace them.

do not file any grooves off. take the front plate out closest to the shoe on the base and it will slide freely. and you do not want the trigger to the depth adjustment to lock inplace. and don’t touch any holes on it. leave them alone. don’t mess with it or hack saw off the base. keep it as is so if you ever go to sell it on ebay and probably double your money in a few years cuz some rich ding dong will see the shaping 101 video and think the skil will make him shape better and probably offer you some crazy ammount of money 4 it, even know they arn’t worth much more than $300. stupid rich asshole kooks are messing up the market and paying way too much for them!

fiberglass hawaii has bearings, trigger assemblies, and belts. the belts look like n.o.s. (not the ones from mex). i’d just leave it alone and use it as is.

fiberglass hawaii has bearings, trigger assemblies, and belts. the belts > look like n.o.s. (not the ones from mex). i’d just leave it alone and use > it as is. Thanks Gene,been looking for a trigger.Do you know anybody that might have a belt sprocket for the cutterhead?What about brushes and brush caps?

Thanks Gene,been looking for a trigger.Do you know anybody that might have > a belt sprocket for the cutterhead?What about brushes and brush caps? ,…Talk to Carlos @ Gene Sherman Co. #(949)-646-7664 located in Costa Mesa,Cali…1733-B Monrovia…Herb

,…Talk to Carlos @ Gene Sherman Co. #(949)-646-7664 located in > Costa Mesa,Cali…1733-B Monrovia…Herb Herb- What is the difference between the skil 100 and the skil model 676? It looks much older and has is the 5.5 amp.

does fiberglass hawaii have a website? Thanks

Herb->>> What is the difference between the skil 100 and the skil model 676? It > looks much older and has is the 5.5 amp. … …676? IS IT A PLASTIC BODY PLANER?If so it has the depth ajustment like a unmodifed Hitachi.The Skill-100 is a different animal all together.Herb

does fiberglass hawaii have a website? Thanks are sprockets for the drives still available? I just had mine serviced at the regional Skil center in Miami for belt tracking problems and they said parts like that were no longer available. I’ve got spare triggers,belts,and blades but those key drive components have me worried. Herb? Oh yeah by the way. I used the chargers but sparingly. The board they were installed on(5’9) only worked with g-curves (at 3’ overhead +) and so the chargers went along for the ride and it was tough to tell what was happening at the speeds I was travelling. I used a 6’5 and 7’4 bonzer 80% of the time. I did use the 5’9 one afternoon at Bawa at double overhead and at Bangkaru at 3-4 ft. overhead (plus a couple of times at the inside reef @ head high). Quite a rush for a 45 year old to be on the smallest board in the line-up and sitting deep. Cheers! jim dunlop

are sprockets for the drives still available? I just had mine serviced at > the regional Skil center in Miami for belt tracking problems and they said > parts like that were no longer available. I’ve got spare > triggers,belts,and blades but those key drive components have me worried. > Herb? Oh yeah by the way. I used the chargers but sparingly. The board > they were installed on(5’9) only worked with g-curves (at 3’ overhead +) > and so the chargers went along for the ride and it was tough to tell what > was happening at the speeds I was travelling. I used a 6’5 and 7’4 bonzer > 80% of the time. I did use the 5’9 one afternoon at Bawa at double > overhead and at Bangkaru at 3-4 ft. overhead (plus a couple of times at > the inside reef @ head high). Quite a rush for a 45 year old to be on the > smallest board in the line-up and sitting deep. Cheers! jim dunlop The aformentioned tool shop did not have sprockets.A machine shop once quoted me around 35 dollars each to make them but I had to order something like fifty of them.seems as if he said he would mill a long bar and slice the length and re machine the hollows.The original sprockets look to me like they are in cast iron.I wonder if someone could recast them? I think that there may be demand for these parts. Motors can be rewound but the drive parts are just not out there. I wish I had time to pursue it further. Any good machinist could do this but they are a dying breed,kinda like old shapers.

does anyone know if fibergass hawaii has a website or not???

The aformentioned tool shop did not have sprockets.A machine shop once > quoted me around 35 dollars each to make them but I had to order something > like fifty of them.seems as if he said he would mill a long bar and slice > the length and re machine the hollows.The original sprockets look to me > like they are in cast iron.I wonder if someone could recast them? I think > that there may be demand for these parts. Motors can be rewound but the > drive parts are just not out there. I wish I had time to pursue it > further. Any good machinist could do this but they are a dying breed,kinda > like old shapers. …ANYTHING that is a component of the armature is no longer manufactured.Therefore you must either have customs built or be lucky enough to find some used parts. I have a friend that re-intro-ed/re-manufactured the little block planer that Buck now makes,and can be readily bought at HomeDepot.I have 4 of the original 12 prototypes…they’re a copy of a discontinued GreatLakes mini planer.He sold the plans to Buck. He is thinking about re-manufacturing armature parts for the Skill-100 if he sees enough of a demand for them.Herb

…676? IS IT A PLASTIC BODY PLANER?If so it has the depth > ajustment like a unmodifed Hitachi.The Skill-100 is a different animal all > together.Herb Herb- I just talked to Carlos @ Sherman tool. He said that the 676 is the same as the Skil 100. It is the oldest skil with the front sliding shoe. It is a type I. He did not know why they changed the model #, but said that $200 was a steal. He is going to do a full overhaul for $60. Very nice man and seemed to know his Skils. Thanks for the tip! Is a south commin’… I hear 17 seconds…Perkos may be good. LAKERS!!!(sorry…I just had to)

…Thanks for the info.I will log that one away.Skill does or did make a plastic body planer like the unmodified Hitachi,but I don’t remember the model numbers(I remember it being a triple digit). …Carlos will treat you right,he is a knowledgeable,and skilled(no pun intended)craftsman.Herb

does anyone know if fibergass hawaii has a website or not??? www.fiberglasshawaii.com…But it never works.

…Thanks for the info.I will log that one away.Skill does or did > make a plastic body planer like the unmodified Hitachi,but I don’t > remember the model numbers(I remember it being a triple digit).>>> …Carlos will treat you right,he is a knowledgeable,and skilled(no > pun intended)craftsman.Herb Herb- Does the 5.5 or the 7.5 make much of a dif. We are taking about foam. I had been looking for about 7 years for a skil (7.5) I was just not willing to pay 5-600 for one. $200 fit my wallet. P.S Do you have any way to read autocad or proE files? I had some people at my company (aerospace company) design a fin system that is, well, you can change fore and aft and cant. Just thought you might give me some input. Thanks, Dave

Herb->>> Does the 5.5 or the 7.5 make much of a dif. We are taking about foam. I > had been looking for about 7 years for a skil (7.5) I was just not willing > to pay 5-600 for one. $200 fit my wallet.>>> P.S Do you have any way to read autocad or proE files? I had some people > at my company (aerospace company) design a fin system that is, well, you > can change fore and aft and cant. Just thought you might give me some > input.>>> Thanks, Dave … …overall I prefer my 5.5 to my 7.5 ,but you can move faster with the 7.5 no doubt. …No I don’t have anyway personally to read autocad ,I haven’t a clue about proE files?I will talk to my wizard Eddy ,and see what he can cook-up!Herb

are sprockets for the drives still available? I just had mine serviced at > the regional Skil center in Miami for belt tracking problems and they said > parts like that were no longer available. I’ve got spare > triggers,belts,and blades but those key drive components have me worried. > Herb? Oh yeah by the way. I used the chargers but sparingly. The board > they were installed on(5’9) only worked with g-curves (at 3’ overhead +) > and so the chargers went along for the ride and it was tough to tell what > was happening at the speeds I was travelling. I used a 6’5 and 7’4 bonzer > 80% of the time. I did use the 5’9 one afternoon at Bawa at double > overhead and at Bangkaru at 3-4 ft. overhead (plus a couple of times at > the inside reef @ head high). Quite a rush for a 45 year old to be on the > smallest board in the line-up and sitting deep. Cheers! jim dunlop …Give it a try in more familar grounds, on maybe, a larger board.I think with all the newness going on around you, it was hard to feel things out…Just my guess-timate.Herb

…Give it a try in more familar grounds, on maybe, a larger > board.I think with all the newness going on around you, it was hard to > feel things out…Just my guess-timate.Herb you’re right about the surroundings, it was almost surreal. and the board had never been ridden prior to the trip, with or w/o chargers. now that I’m home I’ll be using it often (a 5’9 fish is a normal board in N.FL) and with a full stash of fins, should see good results. thanks. jim dunlop