Skil 100 Shapers Barrel installation Part 1

I have always enjoyed build/assembly threads on Sways and elsewhere so when it came time to add a shaping barrel to my Skil 100, I thought it would make a nice thread for all the shapers out there that are getting this planer and using it for the first time.

So here goes:

  1. Its and easy job so find yourself a flat surface there stuff won’t roll around. Here is a view of a lightly used Skil 100 and a new shapers barrel that will be swapped out with the cutter barrel.
  2. First of, take a Philips screwdriver and gently remove the two screws holding on the belt guard. Do not try this with power drivers which can strip/damage the screws & holes.

  1. Remove the belt by hand. Do not pry the belt away from the pulley. Carefully work the belt towards the cutter head while pulling it away from the machine. Just be patient and it will come off with almost no stretching. Place the belt aside for replacement late

D. Next remove the three screws and their lock washers from the bearing plate below the belt gear. Carefully wiggle the plate with a minimum of force and the bearing will pull out of the race and the whole assembly comes out with no distortion. Do not use a screwdriver to pry out the cutter head or the screws to help press back in the new shapers barrel.

Clean all inside cavities of accumulated wood shavings, foam, etc and check all surfaces for burrs or rough spots.

Lay out all your loose parts and compare the two barrels before proceeding on to Part 2.

Be sure to leave the bearing washer in the bearing cup!

  1. Clamp the cutter head in a wood faced vice to protect the unit with the gear up. You will need a 7/16 deep socket to remove the self locking nut. The nut/shaft has a reverse thread so remember that to the right is loose, not tight. Remove the nut without moving the gear. After the nut if off, carefully lift off the gear. Do not loose the cotter key in the shaft. There is usually a rubber tube that comes with the new barrel so use it to lock the key into the shaft so it will be there when you want to switch back. Replace the cover on the new barrel, position the cotter key in the shaft with the small end down and gently push the gear onto the shaft. It should go most of the way without the nut being on the shaft. Lastly, tighten the nut on the shaft which seats the cover firmly on the bearing and the gear to the cotter key. Do not over-tighten the nut as you want to get it off again in the future.

  1. Take the assembled unit and insert the bearing end into the race of the tool. Wiggle it around and pay attention to the line ups of the screw holes and push gently. The bearing should seat all the way with no banging of mallets/hamers or of tightening of the cover screws. A mild flush fit will then allow you to line up the three screws and tighten them down in a rotation sequence. Again, sung to engage the lockwashers but not over tight.

  1. Check the clearance with the front shoe set at zero. Run the planer for a minute or so to set the belt and then go mow some foam!!!



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