Skil 100 Shapers Barrel Replacement Part 2

  1. Clamp the cutter head in a wood faced vice to protect the unit with the gear up. You will need a 7/16 deep socket to remove the self locking nut. The nut/shaft has a reverse thread so remember that to the right is loose, not tight. Remove the nut without moving the gear. After the nut if off, carefully lift off the gear. Do not loose the cotter key in the shaft. There is usually a rubber tube that comes with the new barrel so use it to lock the key into the shaft so it will be there when you want to switch back. Replace the cover on the new barrel, position the cotter key in the shaft with the small end down and gently push the gear onto the shaft. It should go most of the way without the nut being on the shaft. Lastly, tighten the nut on the shaft which seats the cover firmly on the bearing and the gear to the cotter key. Do not over-tighten the nut as you want to get it off again in the future.

  1. Take the assembled unit and insert the bearing end into the race of the tool. Wiggle it around and pay attention to the line ups of the screw holes and push gently. The bearing should seat all the way with no banging of mallets/hamers or of tightening of the cover screws. A mild flush fit will then allow you to line up the three screws and tighten them down in a rotation sequence. Again, sung to engage the lockwashers but not over tight.

  1. Check the clearance with the front shoe set at zero. Run the planer for a minute or so to set the belt and then go mow some foam!!!