Need to free up depth gauge. Have loosened the screw inside but it still does not move freely.
Use a small plastic hammer, and tap, tap, tap, tap, tap,… If that fails to free it up, send it to PeteC, the Skil 100 maestro.
I can only assume that you are trying to do what most guys do; Convert your planer to “on the fly” adjustment. No clicker. The simplest way (but not the best) Is to take a thin screwdriver and a small flashlight and bend the little “ear” on the depth adjustment back. Do that by sliding the screwdriver thru the slot on the fron of the shoe. Usually does the trick. Just make sure you don’t break off the ear and it gets up in the motor or cutter. The best way is to take the planer apart and remove the depth index(clicker). When you put it back together put a washer on the stud that the index sat on to make up the slack from the removed index. Don’t loose the little screw in the front shoe or you’ll be flocked. Otherwise do like I do. I send every recently accquired Skil to Pete first thing for bearings, blades, cord etc. He’s the best around on Skils. Lowel
Yeah, this stuff’s not too complicated; nonetheless, I don’t think you need a flashlight, but I guess if its an emergency.
LOL When you’re my age you do. Looking down that slot is too much like looking down a Fish buttcrack. Scary! You don’t need the flashlight if you just take it apart and put in a washer. I learned that trick right here on Sways from Ghettorat. The only way I do them now. Lowel
I’ve used a Skil 100, since 1958. To this day, while I do adjust depth on the fly, I’ve never disabled the detent in the front shoe. I guess I just adjusted to the effort required to move the shoe. I actually like the detent, because it holds the depth setting firmly in position. All in what you’re accustomed to, I suppose.
Bill
That’s totally awesome you’ve been shaping since 1958, and if anyone ever asked me how long Bill Thrailkill has been shaping, even if I had freakin alsheimeer’s I would know the answer. Nonetheless, a trick I learned from Lance Collins when Wave Tools was the biggest surfboard producer in the world, and doing production shaping with a vacuum was the front shoe will get clogged with foam if your “mowing” so it easier to clean out the shoe with compressed air without the thing there. A good production shaper doesn’t need a clicker to keep track of the depth of the cut, and while a clicker serves a purpose, I can’t feel the push back from the subltle changes in the blank with the darn thing in there. I hope that makes sense, and not incenses you Bill. Just because you’ve been doing that long doesn’t mean you know everything. Furthermore I learn stuff from guys who have been doing way longer, and way less than me. Looking forward to your response, and I do have respect for you and all your accomplishments.
I don’t think anything in my post implied that. In production mode, doing ten boards per day, there were times when a fixed depth cut, that muscle tension was not required to hold, helped reduce hand and arm fatigue. Never occured to me to ‘‘tweek’’ the front shoe detent. And I would routinly blow out the front shoe, as well as the trigger, during the course of a days shaping. I don’t think I NEEDED the clicker, but I found a way to make it work for me. Therefore, I LIKED it.
Bill
Even with the clicker removed mine is still stiffer than I would like it. Read the tip above about the washer and wondering if that is why? I removed the clicker but didn’t put anything in its place.
The guy over on Ebay that sells alot of parts informed me that the clicker is known as a “depth adjustment index”. The washer is the differance. It is difficult to tighten or loosen it to your desired feel with out it. The washer should be the same thickness as the clicker. You can tighten or loosen the screw. Just don’t leave it so loose it backs off and falls out. That’s where a little “loctite” comes in handy. I have lost one before. So I keep extras around. Planer’s no good without that screw. I set all of my Skils loose as a goose, but not sloppy. The Rat is right; They do blow out easier without the index. I used one for quite a few years with the index still in there. I just bent the tab back. It was plenty loose. But when the Rat first came around Sways he mentioned removing the index. I was resistant at first but once I took it apart I could see the advantages. Lowel
Heres the thing, this craft used to be secret and information was guarded, and people were reluctant to share anything, I have been fortunate to have been around the best with my eyes, and ears open. Lance Collins may have learned the tip from Walden but Lance was a machine back then, and super crafty and no nonsense when it came to production. I know Bill is great and had his day, but when he stopped production shaping, boards were still and are being built. 58 is was a great year, and my grandparents left me a 58 Fairlane hardtop convertable, which I would glady trade for them to be back here.
Thanks for all the info. I’ve done everything mentioned. But the action is still to tight. Still have to push to hard to go smoothly in and out of a cut.
I would suggest your doing something wrong if you’ve “done everything mentioned.” Still take the foot off and sand the grooves a bit, and well, I am not telling you everything contrary to what some may believe, because I can talk for hours on this subject on how to soup the things up.
What is wrong with you Rat? If you read what I posted, the gist of it is that I simply accomodated to the tool, as I found it, and used it in a high volume production setting. Remember the comment I made about ‘’…all in what you get used to.‘’ That’s it, nothing more. Why are you trying to start a scrap with me? Over what? As far as boards still being made today, do you ever consider that with the exception of shaping by CNC, people are still using the same tools today, that were in common use for over fifty years… Sanding blocks, Surforms, Skil 100’s, and hand planes. Seems that not that much has changed in the ‘‘modern era.’’ Point is, in light of that, my observations are still relevent today. If you or others, like a loose front shoe, that’s fine. I got along fine with the tool as I found it.
Bill
Yeah, I considered that but was not absolutely sure. And as far as “doing something wrong”. There is not much to it, so I think i’m going through the recommendations thoroughly.
Take a look at the slots on the shoe from front or rear; You may discover that one or both are slightly bent (following a fall for instance) and therefore rub against the planer’s frame. If so, be very careful trying to get them straight again. Especially avoid to hit them with a hammer against an anvil. Don’t ask me how I know.
thanks man.
took the front housing off and found the little tab that actually keeps it tight fitting. now its just right.
I use a skil I bought from McDing. I don’t know all of what was done to it. Bitchen tool.
58 was a good year I recon. The year I was born. On this date as a matter of fact. I’d love to see that Fairlane sometime g rat. Miss my grandparents too. Granddad was a straight talker. Like Bill T. Mike
You may just have the screw in the front shoe too tight. Loosen it up until the shoe slides easily. I can touch mine with one finger against the front of the shoe and make it slide back and forth. When it’s all the way back I can point the planer downward and it slides back via gravity. I did one recently . Removing the index, replacing with a washer and putting it back together. It had a little tight spot in it. I kept resetting the screw and WD 40 ed it . It’s loose now. Just remember to use a little Loctite on the screw after you get it where you want it. I forget whiich color of Loctie to use. Pink, purple, can’t remember. Not the stuff that makes it so permanet that you’ll never get it out if need be. Lowel