Just searched the archives, couldn’t find what I wanted (prob there though) so here’s my question. My son snapped the nose of his board today about 6" back and peeled about 6" of glass back on the deck (about 5" wide). My question is: to repair, I was thinking of first painting some laminating resin on the now exposed deck, clamping it on somehow and filling in the repair on the bottom before glassing over the whole lot. Do you reckon this will work or will I have to cut the glass on the deck?
use some Cabisol or resin filler and lam resin to fill the area of the break,use the glass that is still attached to keep in the proper position. Don’t lam the glass back down, wait for the broken area to harden cut the old glass off and put new glass over to bond the whole thing together. Hot coat and sand
Actually Doc, I’ve got that thread of Neira’s permanently saved. The real issue I wanted to know was if I could, in essence, rebond the glass that had peeled back and, once the nose was reattached, just glass over the whole lot. Just trying to save myself a bit of extra work if it would work. Mark’s reply was use it to reattach the nose and then cut it off before reglassing which I thought would prob be the case. On the same issue, a guy gave me a snapped board he was going to throw. It is held together by the bottom glass. I was going to try and leave that glass in place as well and adapt Neira’s method by cutting the slots along the stringer from the deck only.
-I wouldn’t even think of re-attach the old glass. I’d just tear it off and save only the old glass that still remains “glassed” to the foam. Tearing it off after attaching the 2 pieces will be more difficult.
-6" (15cm for me) is very close to the nose, so I’d forget about slots-4-wood procedure. Just peel loosen glass off, sand stringer edges and glass rails for not disturbing attachment, glue both pieces using very hot mixed resin (I mean “very hot”=a lot of MEKP) or even some Loctite drops checking rocker (such near-to-the-nose place shouldn’t be difficult), fill gaps (resin+foamdust or resin+wooddust…), then re-glass the nose (if you are used you can do both sides at one step (glass-freelap-turn-glass-freelap), then hotcoat, then sand.
Let me just add a little to what Neira said, as I think he’s completely correct - and I think I’ll save that myself, good idea;
You see, whenever I try to stick the glass back on in one of these, it never seems to go on especially well. A small buckle, maybe, but on something bigger you have that strip there that always seems to flap loose, and clamping it well enough to keep it from doing that usually compromises the rocker and the alignment somehow. It doesn’t stay close to the foam, so it’s no real use for holding the pieces together ‘just right’ and more often it gets in the way.
Instead, if you just cut it loose, you can lay in a piece of glass or matting ( after it’s stuck together correctly ) to make up the thickness, glass over it and there you go.
Uhmm- on that snapped board with the bottom glass still holding, I would cut all the way through with your handsaw, just so that there won’t be any foam holding the wood out of place and putting the alignment off. That’s the beauty of his system, you have aligning pins and clamps all in one shot.
The other nice thing is that when you use a handsaw ( as opposed to using a power saw) , the stringer gives you something to ride alongside of with the saw and the slats of wood you use are narrow enough to be almost un-noticable. A plain crosscut saw ( 8 point - 8 teeth to the inch) is probably best, as a 5 1/2 point ripsaw might not take too kindly to punching through glass-and-resin composite.
I had a merrick shortboard that the EXACT same thing happend to , i payed to get it fixed and i never liked the way it surfed again , felt heavy and the rocker got screwed up.