Solid resin Tint on top and bottom

General Discussion
21

Just some more info for clarification for ya.

Solid pigments are just that, solid. If you do a lap over another piece of cloth pigmented the same color you might see the tape off line but that would be it.

Tint pigments are transparent so they will darken on an overlap. On Gene’s board you can see both effects.

There are two ways that you can use a solid pigment.

  1. Pigment your laminating resin, this is cool for after you hotcoat it you will see the weave of teh cloth.

  2. Pigment your hotcoat, this will give a completely solid opaque board.

In the 60’s the big production shops would actually lam and hot coat boards then add a 2nd colored cotcoat once a customer ordered a color board. This when added to with a gloss coat is why there are those heavy 60’s tankers (in addition to a double 10oz glass job).

In the late 60’s early 70’s to cut more weight you began to see the lam layers pigmented solid or transparent tint, then the air brush began to be used (Yuck, ugly).

I’ve glassed a few both ways and prefer the glass to hold the color, though the cut laps can be a bitch. Remember pinstripes can hide the bad lap cuts.

Good Luck

22

Tenover, as far as how much resin is needed, it’s just how good you are at it… Kokua is right, but then Kokua is an experienced pro and he probably glasses several boards a day. YOU might want to play it safe, even if that means some waste. One thing you should remember is to pick up and save a small pot of un-catalysed tinted resin: you’ll be glad you did so when you find out that you have some bubbles to fix.

23

It seems to me the surest way to get an even, solid color would be to glass your bottom then come back and do a deck inlay from the same batch of resin. This would eliminate any ghosting from lap overlays. One layer inlay, then clear glass over that with whatever glassing schedule you want.