some important questions about RR epoxy

hey guys. basiclly i sent this email to greg loher and its pretty long and i like to recived answers from copule of sources…so i just copy the email and pase it here

HEY. I got some problem and questions…im using kk resin and some things some how happend.

i repair two fcs plug on two diffrent boards. ive done the filling in one puor with the quick kick in about 15c or so. 10 min later bubbels start to form and its start makeing a heavy fumes so i put it outside and it completly dri in 10 min! what happing here? i routed the area and now i dont know what to do…should i do this in serval pours? its weird cause its say in your site and swaylocks that the product has low exotherm and good for fin pulgs…

another things is i microwave the resin for hotcoat and its was great viscocity however i should write it haha, its was in a nice warm i add the hardenr i didnt microwave the hardner off course. anyway i brush the hotcoat evrything was good…took for me aprox 10 min after that i left like 20ml in my tiny cup and again its start to be very hot and then it harden, the hotcoat didnt hard…so its say the kk as high exotherm?

 

antoher thing, when i mix the resin and harder i have a lot of tiny air bubbles is it change somthing? should i avoid it? maybe the tiny bubbels i see on my hotcoat is this air bubbels and not fish eye?

and if alredy say fish eye. what is the best way to avoid them completly? make sure the resin is not cold, clean the surface and additve f?

what is the best way to clean the surface is it denatured alcohol or moist towel or maybe both of them? please tell me.

and last thing about add-f right now i dont use it but i ts curttleny ships to me…is it critical? is it help bond between layers of fiberglass like on repair and that stuff? is it make sanding easy?..

that is…i know its a long letter but i gather it to one. my grandfather like to say that if i dont ask-i stay not knowing.

thank you!

YOU EXOTHERMED. EITHER IT WAS TOO MUCH RESIN IN A POOL, OR THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE WAS TOO HIGH, OR A COMBINATION OF BOTH. 2 PART POURS CAN HELP. I USUALLY PUT THE BOXES IN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT WHEN THE TEMP WILL BE BELOW *60F FOR A FEW HOURS. YOU CAN ALSO PUT THE BOXES IN, COVER THEM WITH PLASTIC WRAP THEN PUT SOME ICE CUBES IN ZIPLOCK BAGS AND PUT THEM ON TOP OF THE BOXES.  

EPOXY HARDENS IN A CHAIN REACTION. THE MORE OF IT THERE IS IN A MASS, THE FASTER IT WILL EXOTHERM AND HARDEN. THAT’S WHY YOU POUR ALL THE EPOXY OUT OF THE BUCKET ASAP. WHAT YOU DESCRIBE IS NOTHING UNUSUAL. HAVE YOU READ THE EPOXY CONSTRUCTION PRIMER? ALL OF THIS HAS BEEN EXPLAINED BEFORE. I LOOKED FOR THE LINK BUT COULDN’T FIND IT. DOES ANYONE HAVE THE LINK SAVED?

 

YUP, THOSE BUBBLES WILL GO RIGHT INTO THE LAYER THAT YOU’RE TRYING TO DO. REMEMBER, WHEN YOU MIX THE EPOXY YOU ARE NOT MAKING EGGS (IN THE WORDS OF RESINHEAD) SLOWLY FOLD THE RESIN ON ITSELF TRYING TO MIX WELL BUT NOT ADD BUBBLES. ALSO, I NOTICED THAT USING THE MICROWAVE SPARINGLY HELPS WITH MINIMIZING BUBBLES AND GETTING EVERYTHING TO FLOW OUT BETTER. THAT SAID, I DON’T LIKE KK. I PREFER RR FAST.

I GLASS WHEN THE TEMPS ARE BETWEEN 65F AND 85F AND I DON’T USE ADDITIVE F AT ALL.

CLEAN WHAT SURFACE? WHY?

AGAIN, ALL OF THIS IS IN THE EPOXY CONSTRUCTION PRIMER. I REMEMBER READING THAT IT HELPS WITH SANDING. I DON’T HAVE ISSUSES WITH THAT SO I DON’T USE IT.

GOOD ADVICE

What is the propper mixing techniq without adding tiny air bubbles? video would be grerat. after i lamanaite repair i sand flash the fibers so im end up with dust on my cloth what can caouse fish eye. how shouold i clean this surface? and last thing, if you can find me the  EPOXY CONSTRUCTION PRIMER it will be great

For things like plugs where you will have a more concentrated mass I would use the regular RR, not the kk (Kwik Kick will only encourage your exotherm problem)

a copy of the rpimer doc -> http://www.seabase.eu/docs/resin-research-epoxy-usage/

there may be a lot of good info in the above link but, it’s not the Construction Primer that I was talking about. The one I was talking about has lot’s of good info from users on this board including Greg Loehr…

Idan, propper mixing technique is to slowly fold the resin upon itself. Don’t beat it like you are making eggs. Warming the resin can help with this.

use compressed air to blow the dust off the board. I use my shop vac switched to blower.

The “first epoxy glass job” thread that is mentioned in the FAQ sticky thread is a good guide for hand-lam epoxy. 

If you have a compressor make sure you have an inline oil/water filter. Otherwise your blow off may cause more contamination.

 

Chrisp, is this the thread you meant?

https://web.archive.org/web/20110223152321/http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/detail_page2.cgi?ID=1029

Idan, I hope you are able to solve your problems without too much trouble. I had some KK concerns and Greg walked me through it, turned out it was my process and not the materials. When I followed his advice my results improved. 

 

jrandy, that’s it!

i forgot about using the waybackmachine…

nice score!

Thank you guys that was very helpful! still need to work on my new mixing techniq…new problem: when i fill a repair with kk/qcell mixture the blue color from the resin stay and not dissapir…what should i do? isnt suppost to dissapear from itself? 

another thing that has nothing to do with epoxy, i bought a router and i like to do accurate cut on my ding repair so i can place chunk of foam. is there anyway to make very accurte cut? i tought about making somehow to make a jig or somthing like that…any ideas ?

You could make a jig just like you use for fin box but sized according to your ding - if you post a picture we could give more specific ideas

picture wouldnt change here. normal ding on bottom/top how sould i make the jig?

and what about the blue thing//thanks

I wouldn’t make a jig for routing out a normal ding. Just sand, fill, and glass if needed.