The vee shape will help keep the back end from snapping later. Even a subtle vee will be better than a straightline across the board.
You could also use the curves from the nose and tail or some other complimentary curve
that looks really good- is that corecork or underlayment in the pic?
I taped off my lines and laminated a layer of hemp linen on the blank before I glassed it. I did a fin patch on that board, using the same technique. Since I was doing a rout-in fin install for the side bites I installed a high density insert for those and used the hemp to cover it up. Here’s a pic after glassing but before I added the side fins.
Hemp is a strong fabric, supposedly stronger than the same weight in wood, and if the look fits the board it would be a kewl way to cover your cork or any repair area that didn’t match your original blank.
I get mine from Hemptraders.com. I use the 7oz stuff, which gets darker when you wet it out.
Incidentally, not my idea. As with a lot of other stuff I’ve learned here at Sways, I got this tip off of one of our other posters (NOCEAN) , who has been doing a lot of these over the years.
Awesome! Did you pinstripe the edges of the hemp fabric?
hmm that’s good to know- the underalayment cork is cheap and locally accessible, but adding a bunch of weight unnecessarily isn’t what i’m going for…
I have in the past (I was covering a less-than-acceptable cutlap), but for the board above I just did a razor cut on my tapeline. With epoxy you want to do your razor cuts after the resin hardens but before it sets dry, otherwise you’re fighting it.
Speaking of pinlines, another tip I learned on Sways (Greg Loerh) is for pinlines I use 1/8" automotive pinline tape for my pinlines and then just glass over it - using epoxy, of course.
I’m an unprincipled whooore. I’ll steal ideas from anyone.
we’re always standing on the shoulders of giants. So now I’m thinking I’ll cut some more glass off the tail to make a half-round or taper shape, then I’ll use foam as the cork may add a bunch of weight, - correct me if I’m understanding this wrong but with epoxy I can either glue more PU or a PVC foam like divinicell, and shape that, then a layer of 6ish oz hemp or linen to hide the patch a bit- maybe lap it 1/2" over the old glass, and cut that lap. then a 4oz layer with a nice 1-1/2" cut lap. then fair that, and a “sand coat” of epoxy over? sound right?
I think your plan will work, leastwise, i can’t think of any reason why it wouldn’t. The cork will work, too. What’s the difference in weight between a 1/4" panel of 4# PU and a 1/4" panel of cork? It can’t be that much. Those midlengths don’t need to be real light anyway. This is just a repair. You don’t really have to succumb to the Swaylocks Virus of Exotic Overkill if you don’t want to. I’d go for it, but only because I am that fool who goes where angels fear to tread; and I’d just want to see what I could get away with. .
exotic overkill is def my jam. Gonna scope out what’s available for cork at my local HD and if it seems good, I’ll go for it. Thanks again for all the input & shared experience!
Not a “restoration” but rather as you stated; "exotic overkill ". Lowel
If you find Divynilcell too expensive, I have used aerolite in composite construction.
i got 6mm (1/4") sheets from a boatbuilding supply.
Aerolite has a lot more flex than Dcell, but it should not make a difference in this application, and it’s a fair bit cheaper.
I tried googling around Aerolite- do you have a online source? thanks!
Maybe meant “Airex”(?)
thanks,NSB
Airex