I was putting the final rail band on and laid down one of those really pretty planer grooves right down the rail. Even worse I managed to do it on both the deck and the bottom.
Can I just spackle up the planner groove on a Clark blank like you spackle/fill an EPS blank?
I did it… After shaping my first board, a gust of wind charged into my garage and knocked over another board and guess what it hit…My newly shaped blank.
Filled the two gouges with spackle and sanded to match. It did not take long for the foam to discolor and make the spackle slightly more noticable, but other than that no problems.
Josh
4est…
Suggest you use DAP Fast’N Final Lightweight Spackling compound. You can get it at Lowes.
Ken
after watching Greg on Sat at Cerrittos spackle up the EPS, that was the stuf I was planning to use.
Anyone else spackle clark blanks to repair problem areas?
thanks
Howzit 4est, There are 2 different types of spackle, 1 of them won’t work and I loaned mine to BASA so I can’t say for sure but I think you don’t want the vinyl kind.Aloha,Kokua
I read sugar and resin was what worked best on a clark blank
I hate spackle touch-up’s. It’s only good if you are not going to paint the board… The spackle does not take paint or resin tints like the foam. The areas that you used spackel on will be a couple of shades off than the painted foam. Your board will look like it’s got some weird spotty disease. Spackle blows!
4est. if you didn’t go way way to deep those planer grooves should go away when you blend the rails with your dragon skin or sanding screen.
How many shapers agree that spackle sucks! Petey
You can use a heat gun (carefully) to raise dents and grooves in the foam and then sand it back down to shape.
spackle on a clark blank?
boom boom
…ambrose…
couldn’t help it
too much like
shave anna hair cut
has anyone here ever heard of q-cell ?
i dunno… i thought of aqualung…" sitting on a park bench"
IF it’s a small groove then it might sand out as already stated. If it’s big then you could use pightweight spackle, but I agree that it looks like shit once glassed. Plus ther’s a decent chance that it will lift off the foam and delam quicker than you would hope.
IF you can do it, fill in the gouge with the real thing. Model a small strip of foam to fit into where the gouge. Use a little lam resin to glue in place and sand flush. Much less noticeable than spackle.
Drew
4est. if you didn't go way way to deep those planer grooves should go away when you blend the rails with your dragon skin or sanding screen.
unfortunately this is not a planer mark, it is full groove creating concavity in my rail band. I’d have to pinch much more than I want to to sand it out.
On EPS spakle doesn’t seem to hurt the cosmetics, maybe even improves it. Is it really that different on a clark? or is it spakle dependant?
cab-o-sil?
glass bubbles?
aerosil?
i ripped the glass off a rusty and reshaped and had to spackle it. used the light weight stuff. it was a pain. it acted “different” on the clark foam than on the eps. it seemd to build up more and show an uneveness more. i dunno, it was just frustrating cuz it seems like you should be able to feather it out flat and it just wouldn’t. And then when sanding the spackle it was more difficult than eps to keep from sanding the adjacent foam. i ended up with a lot more spackle on it than i wanted. as far as discoloration, i was doin’ a color lam so it didn’t matter. it would take paint a lot different than the foam if you’re painting the blank. if you’re goin’ clear lam, i think you’ll see a difference between the foam and the spackled areas. you could spray the blank with white acrylic to even it out.
i did get a bubble on the spackled area. thought maybe it was my bad lam job.
and then doin some other ding repair , i didn’t like what i saw in there. the glass not stickin’ too well. plus, spackle doesn’t like water very much. so if you get a ding and you get water, you don’t just get wet foam.