special design characteristics

I am looking at a situation where waves will break on an outside break then reform for a second section on an inside break. The goal is to ride both sections on a single ride; however the board I ride often stalls out between the sections. I am looking for design ideas that would keep the board moving between sections without going to a longboard. Ideas I have considered are wings, concave bottoms, very hard rails, etc, to keep the board planing with minimal push from the wave between the sections. Has anyone considered this situation?

my best guess would be: 1) to use minimal rocker, especially in the nose, and 2) make it heavy. the lower rocker makes a board plane better (more rocker in a board will push water and lose speed), this should also make it a bit faster. adding the weight to a board will give it more momentum to glide right over those flats. -steve

my best guess would be: 1) to use minimal rocker, especially in the nose, > and 2) make it heavy.>>> the lower rocker makes a board plane better (more rocker in a board will > push water and lose speed), this should also make it a bit faster.>>> adding the weight to a board will give it more momentum to glide right > over those flats.>>> -steve As a means of contrast in design concept, properly designed and built, modern nylon and polyurethane surfmats are very adept at connecting distant sections, across long flat spots and racing shoreward between inside and outside breaks. The surfmat`s potential for very high velocities, combined with ultralight weight, fine-tuned (while in the water) volume, widely balanced low center of gravity, resilient and flexible rocker and running surfaces, supple edge contours blending with the natural ability of these craft to efficiently absorb and conform to a wide variety of surface textures without detrimental compromises in handling, all contribute to successfully discovering the fastest (and purest) line between two points. As in life, so it is often with surfing: when acting forces can be orchestrated into balance, following the path of least resistance usually results in the greatest degree of performance. Dale

My guess would be to add some thickness to the board, especially in the tail. Many surfers are too concerned with getting a thin board like the pros ride. Dont be afraid to add some beef. SteveA

I agree with steve page that minimizing rocker would make a big difference. i built a longboard with a fair bit of rocker and when i am on it on a mushy wave or one that is mostly reform i can really feel it pushing the water in the front and slowing down. extra thickness sounds good too but i would make it light rather than heavy because i think you would benefit more from a bit better floatation which will keep you planing up rather than extra weight which will keep you pushing through. just my two cents. trev

I am looking at a situation where waves will break on an outside break > then reform for a second section on an inside break. The goal is to ride > both sections on a single ride; however the board I ride often stalls out > between the sections. I am looking for design ideas that would keep the > board moving between sections without going to a longboard. Ideas I have > considered are wings, concave bottoms, very hard rails, etc, to keep the > board planing with minimal push from the wave between the sections. Has > anyone considered this situation? What are you currently riding and what is the approximate distance between outer/inner break?What I am thinking of is a v-bottom in the 7’4"-7’8" range.This board has a displacement hull,flat rocker,a wide plan shape and a big Greenough fin which drives it through anything.The board is fast and maintains it’s speed through cutbacks, flat spots,etc.A friend of mine was visiting from Spain.took a 7’4" back with him.He surfs a lot of beach breaks and rivermouths similar to what you are describing, and he loves that board.

What are you currently riding and what is the approximate distance between > outer/inner break?What I am thinking of is a v-bottom in the > 7’4"-7’8" range.This board has a displacement hull,flat rocker,a > wide plan shape and a big Greenough fin which drives it through > anything.The board is fast and maintains it’s speed through cutbacks, flat > spots,etc.A friend of mine was visiting from Spain.took a 7’4" back > with him.He surfs a lot of beach breaks and rivermouths similar to what > you are describing, and he loves that board. Right now, I am riding a 7’ 4" hybrid. It does have a fair amoung of rocker that may be slowing it down, 21" wide with fair amount planing surface for my weight (190 lb). I have aquired an 8’ 5" gun blank with a 2.6 cu ft displacement which gives me some options in playing with its rocker vs thickness. The break I have in mind is the Outer Banks on a large swell where the initial break may be more than 200 yards offshore with the inside break 50 to 75 yards offshore. Where the outside break finishes and the inside starts to form may be about 50-70 yards. (these are estimates, and it often changes since waves break on sandbars that are notorously shifty)

for a 7’4 hybrid… i would make it wider, lower the entry rocker, make it heavier, and make the bottom flat. steve