Howzit atomized, I used to spray white on the blank before doing oversprays and yes you need somethin for the overspray to stick to,ever seen one that they tried just spraying it on the blank. The little specks just smear and look terrible. I don't think I can remember any one talking about that trick. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks you guys for all your interesting input, invaluable to me as shaping, glassing, sanding the boards will ok with me but colour/graphics is the the area with eps I have no experience with so I guess the first board (mine) will be a steep learning curve! cheers…SD
Atomized your work is spot on!
Gesso is great to make your colors come alive. Novo Color is the way to go concerning paint.
When I was making my own blanks (EPS) I used Kilz primer sealer with UV inhibitor mixed in the spackle slurry with added Micro Ballons under artwork.
Thanks SD,
Gonna try the Kilz primer/sealer microballoon mix you do. I figure the Kilz must have a pretty strong binder in it. I’m always looking for better ways of doing things.
Atomized,
Is the yellow board spackled or done with epoxy/microballoons?
dd
Atomized,
One other thing what do you use for the clear?
dd
Fast n Final LW spackle, NC Gesso & H2O mix Slurry.
NC Matte Medium.
Howzit atomized, I think Zinsser is the best on the market when it comes to primers, water based and oil based.Aloha,Kokua
I think Zinsser is the best on the market when it comes to primers,
Zinsser is really good. I had the Kliz that I mixed with my tempera paint for airbrushing and the colors were pretty rich. Plus the UV inhibitor kept the colors from fading. The Zinsser can be used the same way. The Gesso technic that Atomized does is a great ideal. I bought a few gallons when Pearl Art Supply shut down in HB for $5.00 a gallon.** My wife is an artist and used it for her canvas. I never got to try it.**
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Howzit surfding, Your wife is a really good artist,my mom was a portrait artist and I always knew I had it in me somewhere's but couldn't find my nitch til I started doing tape off art and that was my calling. Aloha,Kokua
Surfding,
I think you should handle the planner to your wife and see what she can do.
with that level of talent it can't be bad!
Aloha
Lee
Atomized, I have re-read this thread a dozen time to learn all I can. I just picked up this: "3m 232 tape for taping curves and 3m 2209 tape for taping over color. "
How do you use the 2209 tape? I have wondered how you taped up against a painted line. This seems to be the answer.
[quote="$1"]
Atomized, I have re-read this thread a dozen time to learn all I can. I just picked up this: "3m 232 tape for taping curves and 3m 2209 tape for taping over color. "
How do you use the 2209 tape? I have wondered how you taped up against a painted line. This seems to be the answer.
[/quote]
It's a great thread.....I'm always learning....
I plan my paint work so that I never have to put tape over paint.....wierd concept...that's my style...that's what I'm doing........Have fun...
Thanks for all the tips!!!!
Ray
2209 has a pretty thin crepe - 4.5 mils, which makes it easy to see thru. It has a relatively low tack adhesive that helps in avoiding pulling up the paint with the tape.
232 is less stickier than 233 but pulls curves just about as good.
3M has bunch of other tapes that have similar properties as these tapes for example: 200 is similar to 2209, and I really can’t tell the difference between 232 and 234.
It be nice if these tapes came in 1/4" and 1/8" though.
I know a few glass shops that use 2214 or 2393 for taping glosses and hotcoats instead of 233+.
Howzit atomized, I used 233 and 233+ a lot but F.H. also had another brand that worked well with resin but it didn't come any wider than 3/4". Ted is always looking for alternatives when it came to materials and I think that was a good thing. Aloha,Kokua
awesome thread and special thanks to atomized. here my 2c. i just made small test with waterbased acrilic and waterbased poliurethan paint mixed with lightweight spackel. painted with acrilic and waterbased rattle can spray.
the acrilic was clearly whiter but seem not to bond as good as the pu paint mix. when i pulled the glas off the pu part was ripping the eps apart where the acrilic mix pulled off from the surface. i’ repeat just to make shure that i properly preped everthing.
salu2
uzzi
Ok guys, you have been so helpful and I’ve learned a lot about the process and this is the way I have decided to use.
16ft Downwind/race SUP
HD EPS blank that apparantly shapes like a PU blank (great)
1 x 10oz bottom
2 x 10oz deck with lap rails
2 part filler paste as sand coat
Blow sandcoat over with white acrylic
Spray acrylic colour fade over white base coat
Spray Laquer seal coat or Speedcote to seal artwork
A second finishing option is to glass 4oz bottom and deck to seal artwork with resin gloss coat and polish to finish (this option increases my labour time a lot)
The glass weight and sanding paste is recommended by Tris at Homeblown here in the UK http://www.homeblown.co.uk
I guess this will be an evolving/learning process and on shorter boards the process may well be different but given the size of board I’m trying to keep the labour/sanding/finishing time down
Any thoughts would be great…cheers SD
Atomized - will you please share your mix ratios for the slurry and acrylics? Do you have any pictures of mixed slurry and mixed paint? Thanks
Lee this my sound kind of funny?
Did you know my wife is a Shape 3D power user. Her eye is so trained. She’s the brains behind our company: www.americansurfindustries.com
She has fixed 1000’s of design files.
I did buy here a pinline kit because she is better than most.
Surfding
Taping well without bleed is an art in itself.
Guys like you and Atomized have a talent that is specialized.
Using the right tape is half the battle.
Cheap tape is suicidal!