[quote="$1"]
Viejo has the chops, knew he was partners w/ Yater in the 50's and 60's building boards before you guys and your big 40 year run at the Bay.
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Aloha Epacman, That is great to hear but it is a little OT and I m not busting his chops but I don't know him by that name but if I saw him I would probably recognize him. You have to realize that the population of Hanalei has probably grown 400% or more since I moved there and that is a lot of people. Aloha,Kokua
poor poor hanalei.
the most beautiful place
the most beautiful wave
on it’s ‘day’ superlatives
turn into just words.
like the beautiful woman with
far too many suitors becomes
a worn and tawdry shadow
of a former self … the niches
at and in hanalei remain the same
the people just change …
the most popular game in town
is "How long have you been here?
and the answer I favor,
-The mountains have been here longer than any body-
schooling the FNG is a job for those who think they know something…
from a distance … what ? You Know Something?
I have a friend that learned to stop revealing he was
from this island when confronted far away by someone
who knew everything about the place where he lived.
Hana lei has been sold many times over
in my short tenure … the sleepy porch at the rice mill,
ching ma leong , sunrise bakery,the locked gate
at the princeville ranch, The Hanalei plantation Hotel,
the wilderness trail down the bluff ,empty lots on weke road,
only one house at waikoko ,
henry Tai Hook who adopted surfers
and fed them rice and corned beef
from “The Black Pot”
Jerry Lynn ,the man
who singlehandedly saved blackpot
from being developed by taking photos
to governor burns of the moving of the
property line beyond the vegetation.
john bylander ,bubby yarberry(rip),
a parade of archtypes and solid sent
reformers,exploiters,burn artists,
drop - in specialists scarry takeoffs
by the surely blind ,
peeled potatoes blocking shoulders
wearing bikinis,peter murray
being pushed into his first wave
at the hanalei bowl by carlos.
The pond scum behind the mission house
sometimes washes into the ocean
after a big enough rain.
the water table in hanalei is beset
with a banquet of human by-products
from excrement to interscolastic
surf enthusiasts meanwhile
the mountains are amused
When I first saw the birthplace of rainbows
the burnt trees on the ridges told the story
of the big fire. I know because somebody told me.
…ambrose…
I won the pissing contest
at the end of the pier.
When I wouldn’t jump from the roof
of the pier,lunchmeat pushed me off.
David Maki tried to revive ‘dump truck’
when he drowned at the pier
swimming with the other kids …
surfing hanalei alone
after dark w/out a leash
putting the key back
under the flat rock
before you go in.
tex wilson drove the whaler from the club Mud
across the river for his job.
Ralph speared an ulua from his front yard
swimming up river …
wildog cutting meat at the dolphin
spaceman on the back wall
the dolphin staff living
at the dolphin house on the beach
huie macintosh (rip)
Kim Harp (rip)
poor poor hanalei
may she survive her
suitors lust.
Lotsa kooks to go around
Howzit Epacman, Yes I eel sorry for your friend veijo if they are giving him a bad time at the Bay but it has gotten out of controlwith the crowd these days and alot of people thinkthat when they bought a house or property that a spot in the line up came with it. Those are probably the ones who give veijo a bad time since they also yell at people who have been surfing there for a long time and they brought their mainland ways with them. I love how Ambrose put it and since he mentioned me by my Hanalei name ( Wildog) I got a kickout of that. I have to say that Hanalei was a very nice and uncrowded place to surf when I moved there but it is a zoo there now. I wish it had never changed but all of Hawaii has gone through the change and it has hurt the local way of living and the Hawaiians can't even afford to buy apiece of land to live on. I refused to buy when land was cheap because I felt the land belnged to the local people and if I was meant ot be there then there would always be a place for me to live and if I decide tomove back then ther are people who have offered mea place to live I hope you got to see Hanalei back in the 60's or early 70's because it started to go down hill in the late 70's when the first Real Estate happened, up til then they hardly anybody would even buy in Pvilleand you could buy a lot for around $20,000. I love the fact that Brose brought up the Hanalei Hotel because it was so beautiful and even when Club Med had it we finally had a place to dance even though they hated us local guys and even tried to keep us from going there. Enough of that,I am so glad to hear about JA and Things are not ging really god for me but untill I find out more I will just keep that info to myself. Take care and tell veijo to just getas many waves as he can and to bot take any crap from the wannabes that try to surf the Bay. Aloha.Kokua AKA Wildog
have the screen split right now
the hanalei cam ,and swaylocks
the surf report says 6’ from the nw
the cam shows twenty out at the bowl
ten on standups
one wave ski
the waves are not even two feet
the morning sickness is aparent
aka no offshores …
I am good with going to work in my secret labratory
making paddles shiny,a painting to commerate the
year of the rabbit/cat. I am not 'missing anything
at the "BAY"where the guilded will surely gather to
compare contract deals and world travel plans .
they ,as I have said before,Sold their hanalei…
I have not. My Hanalei resides in my heart.
I refuse to debase my dream fullfilled
of surfing the finest wave in the world
end to end,only of course after
umpteen go outs
of getting schooled
on currents,set escape strategies,
who was first ,second, third, and ditch the pack
off the point,fast break against the current
chatto land inner bowl game low tide north at the bowl
carlos is out (must be good),wolfman is out time to go home
the stinkbug show,dough boy got tenure,ralphs ten foot surfboards hawaii noserider,
get a ride with lunchmeat and give him lotsa room and make the bowl…
oh and never roundhouse cutback after the flatrock.
and today?
if pictures tell the story
the guy with the widest stance
maybe feet six or seven feet apart/
is represented to the world as a great
and should be emulated.
kim harp stood erect and his feet as close
as an inch apart shooting the bowl was a sight to behold
not breaking stance from takeoff critically late at Impossibles.
My Hanalei may I humbly submit,is alive and we all are out.
the other hanalei
is a broken streetwalker
hustling spare change
in front of foodland to buy a 45.
…ambrose…
Howzit Brother Brose, Pierre sent me the URL for that web cam and it is great ( thanks to Bali Hai Reality) and can't wait to see some real waves. He told methat Hanalei has had a good year and they are loving it. I agree with you that the north shore has been sold and what a shame but we have the memeories.Aloha,Kokua
It’s not just Hanalei, Oahu is just as bad. I have 2 friends who’ve been hurt in the last year or 2. One almost drowned from getting hit by a board, and it cost him $1000 to pay for the ambulance and emergency room work. I think the worst part is that the hospital costs and then the loss time from work are not being covered by the person who did all the damage.
If you get into a car wreck, the insurance companies go at it to recover costs. When a visitor hits you in the water and hurts you, they leave and no one knows who they were. This needs to be looked at.
This isn't worthy of a new thread, so I hope you guys don't mind me posting here. This morning my brother and I took our young guys down to Rainbow Bay for a surf, my brother's boy is 9 , mine is 6. It's almost ridiculas to go down there on a Sunday, just to get a park is crazy, anyway we did and because of daylight saving, the Queenslanders are an hour behind, so it was not too bad. Actually it was perfect for the little guys and we were having fun. I send my guy on a wave , then swim after him, so its not bad excercise for me too. About the 5th wave, I body surfed a tiny 6" white water after him and bang, my brothers boy threw his board and the nose speared me in the back point of my jaw, not serious, but split and still sore, so we had enough by then and watched a circus unfold that couldn't possibly happen any where else. There were the nippers by then, abt 100 of them, jnr lifesafers, 100's of normal beach goers, 100's of guys in the small surf, from Greenmount point to Snapper, then these wildest looking sup's turned up, 21 of them , really pointy noses, couldn't get any more pointy, yes 21 of them and an outrigger, they proceeded to paddleout through the break, men and women alike, it must have been a club. We were blown out and really wished we had a video or camera, they stretched from Greenmount point to Snapper and it looked wild. They stood around for about 20 minutes and we were waiting for the carnage. No real waves came through, so they all paddled off up the coast. This was set to the background of the quiksilver circus, that has closed off the main carpark, for at least 6 weeks, scaffolding every where, you had to see it to believe it, cheers H.
hey i feel for you guys that ride the beautifull waves, and natures wonder called Hanalei Bay,i was twice there from here,and the memory is still a romance in my thoughts.Stayed for 6 months once, as a guest of Terry Chung.(surfing prince of Kauia) met the reigning king Titus Kinimaka,was very humbled by his prescence.Met Mr.Ambrose (elder statesman) and now regrettably,was too humbled to the point of not being able to say much to him at the time,i was a young and naive 36.....Lunchmeat was kind to me.on his yellow and orange carbon laminate.Surfed some very big waves with Kala, and the big guy with the big fish tooth on a necklace round his neck,sorry i forgot his name but it will come back another time,was scared shitless of this guy to the point where i didnt even make eye contact.John Delaney let me finish and fin boards at his factory in Kapaa,Ray Holt master board builder was there too. i wish i had done better on those giant waves,funny thing the happiest surf i had was on a later visit 2 yrs after .Had a pufff at the pier before paddling out on a 9gun i made for sunset, paddled out past Kushi as he was coming in and got to the reef and everyone was out,kids, moms, dads,the hierachy,everyone was enjoying, 3-4 ft waves, sunny, clear sky and everyone was happy and smiling like kids at a playground....It doesnt matter when and how it still has the magic… and like where i live,also once a magic surfing home,that has degenerated with the rest, like most places in the world, i am eternally gratefull to have been able to have had the magic time of the past,and hope those to come will still be able to see of the magic that drew me here,amen…
Aloha Mikey,
The 8-4 you made me 4 or ? years ago still resides at Stew and Helen’s…Perhaps it’s time to get the dust off!!
Never forget your smiles from the tube…
Roger Kelly
Howzit mikey, That was a while ago because John and Rick had to move out of the kapaia shop years ago and John has his shop in Kileaua now. Terry and Titus are 2 great guys and I have known them both for almost 40 years now and Terry has shaped me a few magic boards. We may have met and I have been known as Wildog since the early 70's in Hanalei. Aloha,Kokua
Howzit sharkcountry, I missed Iniki because I was in Mexico but had a Restaurant in Kapaa when Eva struck and the water surges hit the South and West sides and not the East side and my restaurant came through with only a missing screen door and I was just on the other side of Kuhio hywy and about a half mile from ambrose's. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks for the response,must say i was taken aback Roger,is the picture of you crossing da gama? Kokua that is one special place,wish i could go back for another visit,Hanalei will be turning on again soon…
Howzit mikey, It's that time of year now for Hanalei and I have been in touch with the boys and they say its been one of those good years. There is now a video cam that shows the surf and I have it,but it is on my other computer so I need to get the URL and post it for you guys so you can see what is happening at the Bay. Aloha,Kokua
I’ll bet these two look a little different…pretty sure this photo was from June '06
Yea Mikey, that was me heading back to Helen and Stew’s …I think that is the board you made me…does that look like your Logo?
Hope all is well down there and would love to surf again with you and your daughter…heading over to Mainland Mexico later today and down to Oaxaca and beyond…
Cheers from La Paz, Baja Sur
Roger
There’s a great sequence in the new surfer mag near the last page. It show’s a guy losing it on a SUP and sending his board right at a another surfer on a longboard. Looks like the SUP dropped in on the surfer too.
Kind of sums up what has happened with surfing.
we are battling over here for some regs, our site is safe surfing alliance on face book. ask to be a friend, it is heating up over here!
You guys on the Big Island don’t have a lot of breaks like we do on Oahu. I’ll bet it’s worse over there.
aloha sharkcountry, you got that right! only two rideable spots and the invasion is on! we are orgnized and trying to get a DLNR ruling soon. Kona has more spots so they have a geographical solution to the problem. over here in hilo it is different.
got started on a comment
was getting warmed up
then the loa in the machine said;
access denied…
this stand-off will not be regulated
by the government well.
the self regulating genome
in the surfing culture must
deal with the exponential effects
of the deviation from traditional
modalities of behavior.Only the
Alii will have the last word.
let our nobility raise us up
and avoid debasement.
…ambrose…
da basement is flooded with sewage.
this is 2nd time I tried to post this, I love you, you are good, H.