Went longboard surfing this morning at Stables in Ventura, had a boatload of fun. Waves weren't great, but not horrible either (despite the crowd being a bit thick), and after weeks of being landlocked with triple digit temperatures here in the desert, it felt so good to be out in that refrigerator water! Then in the afternoon, being a bit of a glutton, I decided to take the boogie board out at the jetty below the harbor.
One guy out, surfing by himself. Waves were blown out and crap but dang this guy was getting some good moves off nonetheless. I watched him for a while. I told my wife, this guy is good. She watches for a bit, and says, he looks average to me. I'm like yeah, he looks average to you because you don't realize how crappy the surf is, and he's making it look good. Busting airs and alley oops now and then, too.
I'm like, he's not only good, he's too good. Could it be....
No she says, he'd be out at Emma Woods or someplace with better waves, a world class surfer wouldn't be out here in this stuff surfing by himself.
Anyway I grab my boogie board and head over to the water. On the way out, guess who's coming in? I look as he walks out, and up close, there's no mistaking it.
"Hey Dane!"
He turns and looks over.
"I thought that was you. Love your blog!"
"Thanks man"
Yes, I was star struck LOL. Sure, he's young enough to be my kid - but I really do admire his talent and love to watch his surfing. Nice to see him out by himself in junk surf, just putting in the practise time.