I’ve been building all white SUPs (EPS) with zero issues. Then I thought it would be fun to try tinting my micro balloon blank sealing mixture. The look is sweet.
Unfortunately, every place the paddle hits the rail I get white spots. These white spots don’t show on white boards.
Any tips for doing color on the blank and not getting these white spots?
its just cracks on the glass, they are probably just not as noticeable on your white boards, but still happen.
Either quit whacking the rails with your paddle or buy one of THESE.
Contrary to popular belief, beating your paddle-board will not make it work better. I think if you did it in the parking lot, it will make some extremely happy!
I was having the same problem and took a slighty different (but similar route) to John Mellor. At almost $30 for a paddle guard,all you need is one good roll of black ( or any color you choose) electrical tape. Run two or three layers along the edge of the paddle and you have an inexpensive paddle guard. The tape stretches quite abit and doesn’t wrinkle going around the curves. KIWI Engineering at it’s best.
I’ve been SUPing 6 years. I’m over paddle gaurds. I used them for years. Since shaping my own boards, no more need for them. The 11 month old 7’8 SUP I shaped is solid. No white spots. But, it’s a white board.
I’m shocked at how quickly and bad a board with color looks with an expert paddler onboard.
I stopped by the local factory and was told it doesn’t happen to their boards. I think they are not getting good feedback on what’s really happening with their boards after they leave the shop.
Unless someone knows some secret I’m missing, I’m switching back to at least, white rails. I’ll do color on the deck only.
BTW, the blue board has 5 layers of 4oz S in the rail, all vacuum bagged at 15in hg. The only thing I did different on this board, was baste the rail between applying the deck and bottom layers.
Dwight,
Just wanted to throw one more thing out therefor you. In your last post, you said that you bagf the lams @ 15"hg. That seems pretty high to me. I don’t have data to support it, but “my gut” tells me you might be forcing too muchresin out of the cloth with that much vac. I usually bag around 10" to 12". Maybe you could give it a try on your next one and see if that does it.
Good Luck.
Hi Dwight -
They just look like typical glass snackles to me. All it takes is a good enough whack to bruise the outer layer of glass and it'll show.
One way to fix the dings is to sand to the weave - remove any fragmented glass, dab some Xylene and quickly top coat with epoxy resin and a little glass patch. Once sanded smooth, clear coat it. Often those snackles can be made to be invisible.
I've been tempted to do rail panels with black urethane rubber.
I’ve seen rail protectors as CF lam sections, stick -on clear plastic ( the heavy lexan stuff often used for deck traction), and thin EVA strips. Butt board rails really get hammered with those kayak paddles, so check out what those guys are doing today.
Forget those $30 paddle-edge protectors; go to an auto parts store and get the “U” channel plastic for door edges and superglue it on, about $5.