if you cut the lap when the resin is gelled but not sticky with the blade horizontal and you press the blade against the rails it pushes the glass down as you are cutting it so there is no lifting of the glass edge and it doesnt curl up… the laps do not require grinding or sanding or any of that hack nonsense …maybe a 5 minutes work with a surfform blade at the nose and tail
This is slightly off from the freelap topic but, I'm under the camp that the entire glass structure must work in harmony to prevent breakage. I have many Timber flex style boards that are stringerless and only have2 x 4 on the rail. They are 3 years lod and in great shape. The trick is the entire build, and balancing the cloth. if you use 4 oz cloth...stay with 4 oz, if you use 6 oz stay with 6oz. But don't do a 2x6 top and a single 4oz bottom...but a 2x4 top and a single 6 bottom, that works.
If using the wood build or some other structural build to the foam, use the entire structure as the strength, don't realy on the rails for you work horse. 1) it adds weight. 2) it increases stiffness. 3) if it dings...it breaks right where it dings.
-Just my opinion. I have no data of facts.
I hate seals.