Seems like a lot, but the boards are actually light. I’ve done EPS boards with 3 layers of 4 oz and after one session the deck has quite a few dents. Now it’s 3 layers of 6 oz, 1 layer for the color deck inlay, 2 clear lapped, or 2 layers of a 8 or 9 oz.
I like the symmetrical glassing schedule Jim.
Probably 60% at least of all blanks made are made using Plywood of some sort.
Sadly, none of my efforts to find Deadshaper’s old “Stringerless Longboard” thread have born fruit.
If anyone out there can find a working link or has it saved and could re-post it, that would be awesome.
The gist: keep the glass schedule fairly even between deck and bottom. In his case, he was using 6oz /4 oz on the deck, and the same on the bottom. All layers wrapped the rails. Laps were staggered so they don’t create a big step in the lam. He also reversed the order of the long lap / short lap (in other words the second layer was cut with a shorter lap so you don’t inadvertently sand through the long lap when fairing.
If memory serves, he was doing this with 9’ or 9’6" longboards and 1.5 pcf EPS.
Is this the thread you are looking for NSB?
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/246804#comment-246804
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/246809#comment-246809
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/246807#comment-246807
Many years ago, a pro snowboard and skate deck builder on another forum also indicated he uses symmetric glassing schedules – top and bottom the same – for good strength.
As alluded to by Greg Tate earlier, stiffness is directly proportional to the cube of thickness.
All my boards are stringerless 2lb EPS. Mine are paipos. So they are kind short 4’ to 4’9". I have found that a layer of 12oz and one of 4oz on the deck and one layer of 12oz on the bottom is plenty strong with no flex. I did several with 3 layers of 4oz on the bottom on the and top. But I think 3 layers of 4oz is overkill.
Forces that take a surfboard are far to be the same both side, optimized glass shedule should not be symmetrical…
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/453327#comment-453327
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/453330#comment-453330
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/453321#comment-453321
because deck and bottom shape are not the same, optimized glass shedule should not be symmetrical…
an other:
Because light foam core (even 10x denser than those in surfboards) is not structural about buckling strengh optimized glass shedule should not be symmetrical…
or:
because surfer stand up on deck and not bottom optimized glass shedule should not be symmetrical…
but symmetric glass shedule can work very well…
Awesome.
Yup, that’s it. I thought it was a thread of its own.
Thank you.
I had been wanting to buy a longboard for myself.
Rented a 9-5 Guy Takayama Hoku in June – “symmetrical,” epoxy glassing schedule. Seemed very well built. Paddled well. I liked it.
Ordered one for myself last Tuesday. Arrived today.
Happy to help out.
Remembered it from an old post in the “Carbon Tail Experiment” thread.
Here’s one of my many stringer less longboards,
https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/sbc-109-high-tech-experiment
I also made the one below. It worked great. It’s last day was awesome.
Length? Thicknesss? Foam’s density, minimum compressive strength and type? Glassing schedule?
Typical sandwich break. Seems that deck skin buckle because of lenghtwise compression forces that appear when board flex, then deck skin break all load go in bottom skin that break in tensil or in flex.
Avoid the initial buckling and board don’t break.