Does anyone have an opinion on XTR foam???
It delaminates when it gets over a certain degree. It is very light but you have to take the chance of it delaminating. I would stick to Clark until the delam problem is solved.
It delaminates when it gets over a certain degree. It is very light but you have to take the chance of it delaminating. I would stick to Clark until the delam problem is solved.
I would wait to see if the beaded styro that Jim Phillips talked about is out. I think there are less problems with the beaded sryro and I think it is less costly. Think about it, do you want to make or glass a board that is going to delam just because it is warm out side. It is one thing to have a board that takes a few month beating and themn delams vs. a new stryro board. I’d wait, I bet there is going to be something better that styro beaded or extruded…
I would wait to see if the beaded styro that Jim Phillips talked about is out. I think there are less problems with the beaded sryro and I think it is less costly. Think about it, do you want to make or glass a board that is going to delam just because it is warm out side. It is one thing to have a board that takes a few month beating and themn delams vs. a new stryro board. I’d wait, I bet there is going to be something better that styro beaded or extruded…
I had a bad experience with an XTR blank. When I was shaping it, the board split down the stringer. I couldn’t figure a way out to glue it back together. I have no idea what kind of adhesive to use. I couldn’t shape it. It was light, that I can say. I think I’ll stay with CLark foam because no glass shops glass with epoxy. I think Epoxy is a come and go fad.
I had a bad experience with an XTR blank. When I was shaping it, the board split down the stringer. I couldn’t figure a way out to glue it back together. I have no idea what kind of adhesive to use. I couldn’t shape it. It was light, that I can say. I think I’ll stay with CLark foam because no glass shops glass with epoxy. I think Epoxy is a come and go fad.
“I think Epoxy is a come and go fad” Lol!!! No, I really don’t think epoxy is a come and go fad. Not only is it a step in the right direction, but it’s really the only way to go. Surfboards are at the bottom of the totem pole when it comes to materials. Boats, planes, sailboards, kiteboards, wakeboards, skimboards, sports equipment and any other type of composite device where performance and durability is paramount all use epoxy resin. What’s really funny is the way people keep referring to epoxy as “a new resin”. Epoxy’s been here for a long time.
“I think Epoxy is a come and go fad” Lol!!! No, I really don’t think epoxy is a come and go fad. Not only is it a step in the right direction, but it’s really the only way to go. Surfboards are at the bottom of the totem pole when it comes to materials. Boats, planes, sailboards, kiteboards, wakeboards, skimboards, sports equipment and any other type of composite device where performance and durability is paramount all use epoxy resin. What’s really funny is the way people keep referring to epoxy as “a new resin”. Epoxy’s been here for a long time.
It is so hard to work with and no glass shops glass with it.
It is so hard to work with and no glass shops glass with it.
Just Curious, Why do a majority of people on this forum say that epoxy is hard to work with? - Is cure time the major factor? - What type of epoxy systems are people using that they find " Hard to work with." I realize that epoxy’s don’t Kick the same as Poly Resins, but it seems epoxy would be the way to go towards the realm of lighter and stronger.
Just Curious, Why do a majority of people on this forum say that epoxy is hard to work with? - Is cure time the major factor? - What type of epoxy systems are people using that they find " Hard to work with." I realize that epoxy’s don’t Kick the same as Poly Resins, but it seems epoxy would be the way to go towards the realm of lighter and stronger.
You guys have any clue where I could hook up an XTR blank?
You guys have any clue where I could hook up an XTR blank?
Why is epoxy hard to work with? In my limited experience, it’s been just as easy or even better the poly. I’ve nuked more foam with poly than epoxy. The poly is more sensitive to mixing rates and heat then the epoxy. If you screw up you can sand the epoxy without a hotcoat. I’ve had more poly go off in the pot than epoxy. regards, Håvard
Why is epoxy hard to work with? In my limited experience, it’s been just as easy or even better the poly. I’ve nuked more foam with poly than epoxy. The poly is more sensitive to mixing rates and heat then the epoxy. If you screw up you can sand the epoxy without a hotcoat. I’ve had more poly go off in the pot than epoxy. regards, Håvard
And… to add to Havard’s epoxy info… when epoxy does start to go off in the pot, if you dump it out on the board quickly you still have the ability to work with it. you cannot do that with poly. Epoxy does not get lumpy like poly, but just gets hot and a bit thicker. You can spread it out and keep working it in to the glass as it starts to cure. I just lammed my xps board project and did the rails mostly with hot epoxy poured and hand spread into the laps (with gloves of course). It was the quickest way and worked quite well too - I had to move fast since the epoxy was getting very hot. I followed up with the squeege and it cleaned up nicely overall. One note on the Epoxy. I used Epoxy from Greg Loehr’s Co., Resin Research. I think it is excellent stuff. It is absolutely gin clear. Sandable without any additives, and cures with a very shiny finish too. The sanding coat looked better before sanding than after sanding with acrylic (future) on it. I’m probably going to go back and give another light sanding and a gloss coat since the finish will be better. I can only reccomend this epoxy. At first it seems expensive per gallon, but you use less of it than poly. I glassed a 7’6" board, 2 layers of 6oz. top and bottom, with hot coat. And I was surely more wasteful than a more experienced glasser - and I still havn’t used half of the gallon. With a little care I’ll get two more shortboards out of the resin left over, which will easily break even (for me) with buying poly. With 1 gallon of Epoxy you get a 1/2 gallon of hardener, so using the 2/1 ratio of resin to hardener, the liquid volume you have to work with is greater than that of poly with MEKP. I don’t know how much, if any, of the hardener is lost in the cure, maybe none(?), but over all a gallon of Epoxy, with hardener, nets you more resin to work with. If you want to try something that does not stink up the neighborhood (my reason for going epoxy), is easier to clean up, is less wasteful, and is a bit better for the environment, Call Resin Research. I’ve only done one board with the stuff and I’m sold enough on this to be already wondering what to do with the poly resin I have from before. Eric J. (nope, I work in publishing, not for Resin Research)
And… to add to Havard’s epoxy info… when epoxy does start to go off in the pot, if you dump it out on the board quickly you still have the ability to work with it. you cannot do that with poly. Epoxy does not get lumpy like poly, but just gets hot and a bit thicker. You can spread it out and keep working it in to the glass as it starts to cure. I just lammed my xps board project and did the rails mostly with hot epoxy poured and hand spread into the laps (with gloves of course). It was the quickest way and worked quite well too - I had to move fast since the epoxy was getting very hot. I followed up with the squeege and it cleaned up nicely overall. One note on the Epoxy. I used Epoxy from Greg Loehr’s Co., Resin Research. I think it is excellent stuff. It is absolutely gin clear. Sandable without any additives, and cures with a very shiny finish too. The sanding coat looked better before sanding than after sanding with acrylic (future) on it. I’m probably going to go back and give another light sanding and a gloss coat since the finish will be better. I can only reccomend this epoxy. At first it seems expensive per gallon, but you use less of it than poly. I glassed a 7’6" board, 2 layers of 6oz. top and bottom, with hot coat. And I was surely more wasteful than a more experienced glasser - and I still havn’t used half of the gallon. With a little care I’ll get two more shortboards out of the resin left over, which will easily break even (for me) with buying poly. With 1 gallon of Epoxy you get a 1/2 gallon of hardener, so using the 2/1 ratio of resin to hardener, the liquid volume you have to work with is greater than that of poly with MEKP. I don’t know how much, if any, of the hardener is lost in the cure, maybe none(?), but over all a gallon of Epoxy, with hardener, nets you more resin to work with. If you want to try something that does not stink up the neighborhood (my reason for going epoxy), is easier to clean up, is less wasteful, and is a bit better for the environment, Call Resin Research. I’ve only done one board with the stuff and I’m sold enough on this to be already wondering what to do with the poly resin I have from before. Eric J. (nope, I work in publishing, not for Resin Research)
WHere is resin research? WEb site… new address… What resin is it the one Fiberglass Hawaii sells or the resin used to glass XTR at Javiers in Oceanside?