I’m new to Swaylocks but looking for input: What do you all suggest for a heavy back-footed surfer on a 6’6" (11.5 x 19.5 x 14.5: 2.5 thick w/full rails). I’ve been riding 5" nose and 2.25 tail but am lacking down-the line planing/drive. I recently rode a similar board w/less tail rocker and it went great so I really want to nail it down. How low could I go before the board gets stiff? Is 1 3/4" too much?? What increment in change (1/8", 1/4"??) to tail rocker do you think makes a significant difference?
Dez - yes you’ll notice a difference with 1/4" less tail rocker - But why don’t you measure your friend’s board and go with that?
Can’t get my hands on it or the rocker info - was a Bushman Tuf-lite "Pancho Sullivan model.
…well, now I have in my workshop 2 personal (former ones) P Sullivan boards to ding repair
the 6 6 x 19 have 5 1/2 1 3/4 1 (12 up tail) 2 3/8
so is a lot more than the measurents that youve got there
If reverb’s rocker specs are accurate, and the board has enough concave (1/8-3/16 deep placed in the right spot), then I gotta quote you here:
What do you all suggest for a heavy back-footed surfer on a 6’6"
nothing personal but it could be technique…you should be able to drive it with the appropriate set of fins (this is super critical) but projection (what you call planing) can be very technique dependent…you may need more of a balanced approach, even more front weight bias, to dial in the board’s speed sweet spot.
I have found 2 3/8 TR to be the transition point between fast and not so fast…but for a 6’6, it sounds just about right for you. Of course, contour affects this measure. Less TR would affect your turning radii but will increase projection in fast downtheline walls. Entry rocker counts too. Without knowing all the other design features such as finning and contour etc Im speaking in somewhat general terms here.
If youre an active pumper, less is not good…if youre a smooth sailor, then less might be a good option. I would suggest you explore your weight dist…its done wonders for me in the last few years. HTH
Dez…,
At 6’ 6’‘, 4 1/2’’ nose, and 1 3/4’’ tail rocker would be just fine. With a heavy back foot, you might want to consider smaller sides, and larger center fin, if you are using a tri setup. Use a ‘‘late’’ tail rocker to lengthen the center planeing area, and you’ll pick up the glide you are looking for.
All welcome input. Thanks - but I don’t feel I have a technique problem (been surfing 23 years and above average ability on long or short). I have been riding a low-rockered, forward vee bottomed epoxy “Egg” as my second board for 10 years and love it (7’4" w/ only 2" tail-rocker). I live on the gulf coast and the surf is often weak or choppy. Combine that w/ my size (6’1" and 180lbs) and a lot of rocker (esp. on a shorty!) just doesn’t work (missed sections, stomping on the front foot - trying to get the board to just go down the face).
The “late” rocker you mentioned sounds like a sensible idea. Late meaning the apex of the bottom-rocker is further back towards the tail thus putting the board’s “fulcrum/sweetspot” between the feet??? How would nose-rocker need to change if at all w/ this kind of rocker? Suggested bottom design?
Dez96,
As a board gets shorter, less nose rocker is needed. I rode 7’ 10’’ boards with 5’’ of nose rocker in Hawaii, and Calif. for years with zero problems. And that includes major big waves. For a 6’ 6’’ board, 5’’ of nose rocker is not needed, but if that’s what you prefer, there is nothing wrong with that.
I personally like boards with wider noses and very little rocker up front, and generous rocker in the tail. A flatter nose is more difficult to keep from diving on steep takeoffs. but I end up with a board that has more usable length - since I keep more of it in the water, a flatter plaining surface - makes it faster, and more manuverable - tail rocker. I’m not into skinny-nosed boards with lots of nose rocker. I always end up wanting to cut off the first six inches. Besides, I like to move around alot on my boards, and the nose is not off-limits, even on my shortboards.
My glory days were in the 70’s, so that may help explain my preference. The beak lives.
The “late” rocker you mentioned sounds like a sensible idea. Late meaning the apex of the bottom-rocker is further back towards the tail thus putting the board’s “fulcrum/sweetspot” between the feet???
Thats pretty much how most standard shortboards are designed, and chances are thats what your riding.
Based on your last comments, particularly your comments about the larger egg shape, and surfing smaller mushy surf, you need more than just rocker advice. If you want to thruster surf with more speed get yourself a modern three fin fish and dont look back. Rusty has many good examples on his website.
ps- Ive been surfing 28 years and there is always room for technique improvement…heavy back foot is not exactly what I call ‘effective’ particularly a heavier guys…yes if youre riding a McCoy or Zap, but otherwise no. Back foot surfing in your situation is like putting on brakes. That fulcrum/sweetspot you referred to demands that your distribute your weight accordingly to make it work optimally. But hey what the hell do I know, Im just a dumbass surfer…just ask jjenks
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=281915#281915