I recently started using sun-cured resin for laminating, ding repair,etc.Sure is quick,clean and easy!However,I have this nagging suspicion that this stuff may have some negatve, longterm side effects,eg,total delamination,cracking,etc. Any input would be appreciated.Thanks!
I recently started using sun-cured resin for laminating, ding > repair,etc.Sure is quick,clean and easy!However,I have this nagging > suspicion that this stuff may have some negatve, longterm side > effects,eg,total delamination,cracking,etc. Any input would be > appreciated.Thanks! When you say Suncure I’m assuming your talking about the brand Suncure. I think some people are using it as a term for UV catalized resin like “Coke” is used for any soft drink. The brand Suncure I believe is a cheap Orthophthalic silmar resin with a UV catalyst mixed in it. Pure Orthophthalic resin is the weakest polyester resin there is. I made a board with it once and it shattered and dinged thru too easy for my tastes. You can get better quality resins with UV catalyst premixed or add your own. You can even use Suncure’s catalyst in some other brand of polyester resin. I use an Orthophthalic/isophthalic blend with a UV catalyst premixed and have built several boards all with excellent results. When I first considered using the UV resin I too was sceptical and concerned about the strength of the resin. I’m totaly convinced that the UV resin is no different if not a tad stronger than MEKP catalyzed resin. I’m using the same polyester blend that I had been using with MEKP and with the UV catalyst I’ve seen no difference in its strength properties after extensive use. A few boards are going on 2 years now. The resin type that you use will be the ultimate factor in how strong it is. The UV resin will just give you many benifits like less fumes, longer working time with the lam if you need it, less overall time to build the board and for some reason it seems to leave the board whiter. Even if the resin has UV catalyst mixed in it you can still use MEKP to set it off when you need to, like when your setting fin boxes,FCS plugs or leash plugs…UV resin without MEKP won’t go off in those areas where UV can’t get to it. Go for it without fear but I advise that you use Iso or an ortho/Iso blend instead of pure ortho resin.
is a cheap Orthophthalic silmar resin with a UV catalyst mixed in it. Pure > Orthophthalic resin is the weakest polyester resin there is. I made a > board with it once and it shattered and dinged thru too easy for my > tastes. Interesting post. How about some brand names/numbers on the products you prefer – ratios for mixing ortho/iso. etc. Thanks Shine http://users.leading.net/~shine
In a thread above, I asked about uv inhibitor powder that keeps a board from yellowing. Would this stuff affect the cure of uv activated resin?
I recently started using sun-cured resin for laminating, ding > repair,etc.Sure is quick,clean and easy!However,I have this nagging > suspicion that this stuff may have some negatve, longterm side > effects,eg,total delamination,cracking,etc. Any input would be > appreciated.Thanks! Matt, the mfgrs. of “Suncure” are freinds and neighbors of mine. Like any product there are some +'s and -'s but over all I’ve found “Suncure” to be perfectly adequate. There are some tricks to using it. I’ve found the the indirect sunlight will work better during laminations than bright sunlight.(of course exposure to any sunlight should be avoided until you’ve completed what you’re doing) Lengthy discussions have been had here in N. Fl. about the direct sunlight causing a reaction that is too rapid and seems to cause shrinkage of the lamaination creating the liklihood of separation and pin air occuring at the lap area when laminating the deck. This can occur for other reasons suchas not sanding the edges of the bottom lap or not flooding the lap line with enough resin during lamination or drawing too much resin back out of the glass with your squeegy when doing the deck. Even when I make concerted efforts to address each one of these problen areas i get varying results. I would tend to think it was more me than the product at this point. I’ve finished almost 20 boards with this stuff and they all have been as durable as anything else. I’ve watched the boards over 2 years and other than slightly yellowing due to exposur to sunlight ,as would any board, I see no difference. I would suggest using this stuff for laminations only as this is the most time sensitive and critical part of glassing. Hot coating with regular resin and catylst will result in better sanding. I use wax paper to handle the board so as not to get finger prints or dirt on either the foam or the rails as you flip the board to laminate the deck. These are just a few tips I can give you DO NOT USE THIS STUF IN EXTREAM COLD! DON’T EVEN LAMINATE OR HOTCOAT IN AT NORMAL TEMPS. AND THEN EXPOSE TO COLD! IT WILL TURN MILKY WHITE AND IT WON’T SAND OUT! If you see that there are going to be extream temperature swings the save the glassing for another day. JC
is a cheap Orthophthalic silmar resin with a UV catalyst mixed in it. > Pure>>> Interesting post. How about some brand names/numbers on the products you > prefer – ratios for mixing ortho/iso. etc.>>> Thanks>>> Shine Shine, I don’t mix the resins myself. I suppose you could. The blend I’m using now is Known as Y2K and I get it from Fiberglass Hawaii in California. (831)476-7464. I previosly used blends from Fiberglass Florida ( I don’t even know if they’re still “up” but last time I checked years ago they stoped selling anything but pure ortho resin) and Monterey Bay Fiberglass who was acuired by Fiberglass Hawaii. Y2K is the best I’ve used so far. I’m very pleased with it’s properties. I don’t have any idea what it’s mix ratios are but it seems to be as strong as the pure Iso’s I’ve used and yet it cures out white. The pure Iso’s I used were amber colored and cured out Ivory like. Y2K is light blue. I’m sure there must be other blends from other sources as well but I’m pretty satisfied with Y2K.
is a cheap Orthophthalic silmar resin with a UV catalyst mixed in it. > Pure>>> Interesting post. How about some brand names/numbers on the products you > prefer – ratios for mixing ortho/iso. etc.>>> Thanks>>> Shine One other thing, you can get Y2K with or without UV catalyst premixed. I think any given resin is more brittle when catalyzed with MEKP than with UV wich is exactly the opposite of what I expected before I started working with UV resin… but I don’t have any hard test data to back that up. I’m just going by what I think I see in my own boards.
thanks for all the input-“UV’e”(ha-ha!) all been a big help.Thanks!