**G-LAND … **Read up and use this as a reminder if for
nothing more than…yup…a friendly reminder. Out here, there’s always a
lot of surf talk spanning big stretches of our time. Normal right since
that’s why we’re hanging in this particular jungle…to surf…but not just
to surf any class of wave. This is a HIGH CLASS collection of waves.
And it’s easy to expect some high class story talking. Some story
talking is about the past…a ride or wreck “i had” or one “i saw you
get.” Some stories orginate in the moment, usually born of a simple yet
very tangible appreciation of a wave or ride we’re watching right there
and then. And then there is the story talking that focuses on the
future. I’m not a futurist. Can’t really put my mind on something too
far ahead in time and create a feeling for it. Planning…that’s usually
the result.
If i could choose between talking about what the swell is supposed to
do tomorrow and NOT EVER talk about it again…too easy…snap of my
finger, a raised hand and a wave goodbye and i’ll be happy to wake up
fresh the next morning and have no expectations of “what it’s supposed
to be like.” Or talk to people with those curiousities or
expectations. It doesn’t bother me, just seems worth nothing since we
are all here already, waiting for the presents to arrive. We’re not
going anywhere. Maybe you wanna extend and hedge your bet by checkin
magicMEweed. I can understand that very easily. It does cost a bit of
money to be here. But it’s only a hedge to the intial desire of
extending with the hopes of getting some better quality surf. Not a
guarantee…
Bondan (aka. Mike Tyson) and i have a joke about the forecast. He
asks me what the surf is gonna be like tomorrow at 11:15 and knows that
i’ll suggest we need to ask god about it and since he’s a more
metaphysically connected individual than myself, he does the deed. The
closest tree or even just a peice of wood is the conduit, always linking
his right hand cupped over his ear with the direct “redline” to god.
AND NO JOKE…he’s always right on. Whether it’s surf, the wind, water
temp, fish, or some natural element of life. But we’re not trying to
seed our joke as a new venture into psychic readings of any sorts…
There was a reminder in all of this. That’s how this entire
key-punching expression started…a reminder that the involvement with
swell prediction is something that spins people out. And this is
just my observation.
Last swell prediction showed a significant enough swell coming to
us…8 foot at 16 seconds coming from 222 degrees, which for here is a lot
of W in the swell. True SW is 225 degrees. So the friendly reminder
is this…remember that swell predictions can and will be wrong. Better
to not get emotinally attached to them. Instead of waking up and seeing
the Bombora capping on the morning lowtide and Fan Palms and the Ledge
going off from the predicted 222 degree swell, we got some classic
Launching Pad into Speedies. Pretty seamless too. You should see the
photos!!!
Truly though, the photos are coming soon.
And the water is still slowly warming up. It’s difficult to say what
the temp really is, but a jacket is still probably the call for better
comfort. I’ve been back and forth between just trunks and a vest…