when we get delivered, and freed from our container, we don’t know where we’ll be at. But we’re glad to be out.
No one wants to be cooped up for too long, sometimes our parents given into our demands and we get out before hardened under the pressure. It doesn’t look right.
But the thought that crosses everyone’s minds but is never spoken . . . it is taboo and you don’t want to jinx it . . .
Oh, I can get in serious trouble for this. But oh well you have to know. I just hope the karma won’t come back and haunt me.
it doesn’t matter whose hands we get into . . . but that we get there. You even seen those Discovery Animal Planet shows where they show salmon trying to get to the quiet upper waters to breed and die?
Same. All blanks desire this. We all want to get wet and feel a wave. Even if we had no glass, still even if it leads to our demise.
But the last thing a blank wants is a disfunction of natural order. To be locked up on solitary confinement. After our first wave its all downhill, but surfers don’t even get it. It doesn’t matter, its like that fly that is born only to procreate and then die a few hours later.
A blank’s sole purpose in life is just to get that one wave. To be denied that very destiny all blanks must attain, man that’s too tough to mention. Just one wave. The lucky ones will get several. But nothing’s like the first.
But I’m glad, I was bought by some kid with wild imagination. I’m thinking he’ll post it on this web page I saw on a flickering computer screen, while waiting in his room, trying to squirm away from his dog licking itself. The family pet’s claws aren’t trimmed.
For a beginner he’s as the black folk will say, ‘awwrigh’ at shaping. I got this old school curren copy that turned into early 80s. I don’t know what I really am.
But the glass was pretty good. Sanding was ok. I got scared when the sander bit into my flesh. You know you never know if you’ll get tossed for a blotched shape or what not. You just don’t know these days. But went fine, all fixed and good to go.
I’m sitting with all these other boards, with wax on. The elders say if you’re put a room with others that have wax, there is a chance of waves. As long as you’re not hung above Over Head height you will do fine.
Yeah I’m on the ground. The roundtail next to me has wax. I don’t say nothing , but they talk about the break. They tell me, ‘whats up’. And they laugh and say, ‘I think you’re next’. I act all cool. But like Tom Curren, I wait.
Like all blanks I want one. Just one. One wave.