“I stopped surfing about 25 years ago, when I was 22.” Let’s see here ah 47! Crap what are you worried about? Get a stress test and IF you pass get a crappy 8’er get in shape and go for it OPS @ that age 6’-10’
Oh nothing better than dawn patrol in HB…
Aloha!
Thank you for the positive feedback, I appreciate it. Yeah, I was thinking I will be taking a lot of face plants as my body will fail to get up on time. Worst case I try and decide I am too old.
I currently walk 5 to 10 miles several times a week, now it is time to hit the pool and get back up to a mile. That should help on the paddle out.
Be well.
Topher
There was an article in surfer recently where the aging author talked about the lack of reaction when pearling or getting pitched by the lip. He called it the** mummy toss** which was apt. I try to avoid the mummy toss during my dawn patrols. When it happens I figure I should have stretched more, activated more muscles, and drunk more coffee.
Avoid being the mummy and things will be fine.
So now I’ve got this 6-0 epoxy Uber Plank and loving it. Taking time to get it wired (actually, getting me wired is the problem) but all fun. Yeah, I still should be on longer boards, but the small stuff is so much more interesting and, for me, fun. I think that there’s a time that I simply won’t be able to ride boards this size, so why give up now? Practicing popups and getting in more critical postition so I don’t have to paddle as much works thus far. Carry on!
pics!
I love this thing: 
6-0, 21.6, 2.6
We should all be like this legend at the end of our ride.
Mr. Woody Brown.
We should all be like this legend at the end of our ride.
Mr. Woody Brown.
Yeah but even he had to quit a couple of years before his end. That’s why they call the spot “Woodys”. Nice man.
He was still sponging into his late 80s. Not too bad of a ride.
Inspiring.
I’m with Ron I have way too much fun on my short boards, they range from 5-2…7-0 all of witch are around 30 to 36 lts . The 7-0 is my longboard, but still rides like a shortie( thanks Mike & Kirk) And thanks to Neptune (and Barry Snyder) theres is a new member on the way 5-6 ,Ya!! Im 55 and I surf all I can! and there will come a time for (around 70) for other options.
Huck- I to had to pack up the board’s regrettably as a major life change took place. But it’s personal so I’m not going to talk about it. Anyway, sold my entire “quiver” and it hurt ltr…all the memories etc…one board - a big wide 6’4" x ,21" fish I missed most bcuz it was my first custom…But eventually things go I geuss… but noticing those patterns of life/ death, in out, drama peace etc… one can regroup/change and you don’t have to be locked into a situation you don’t care to be in… so do whatever deem necessary to get back into it! I’m glad you followed your heart man!?
Once you surf you don’t forget - it is a part of you. Fyi I was out of the water ten yrs - then bought a six one thruster - which I noticed paddling wasn’t up to par.but! I actually paddled out steamers in santa cruz ca and caught five waves and got dunked and noticed my swimming felt weak so I proned it back in. Now I’m fifty and I really do feel about a six ten 21" and a 1/4" less than 3" thick would be more what I should be riding. Thanks for sharing! But take your time until you build confidence as things can go terribly wrong otherwise…
Ha! My wife yardsaled one of my boards, a 6-7 G&S swallowtail, and she sold another, my true favorite, a custom made (by a backyarder buddy) 5-11 fish (I’m talking from back in the day when people would stare and say What the heck is THAT thing!) to someone who made a coffee table out of it! Still hurts to think about it, but I can laugh too. 4 years back into it now, and loving it, especially now that I make all my own boards.
~~Once you surf you don’t forget - it is a part of you <---- That is one reason I need to get back into the water. I need to ~~re-align. The stroke I had 5 years ago was small enough not to impact me much, but just having a stroke at the age of 43 really got my attention and changed me mentally. I need to do what I enjoy while I am still here, while I still can, even though I expect it to be a huge enjoyable challenge.
The stories here have me thinking I too can paddle back out, though slower and less aggressive as before. And I expact not to surf at trestles or HB pier, the cliffs will have to do.
Becuase it is true, Once you surf you don’t forget - it is a part of you as shapaholic says.
Huck - right, I got over it to… but I’m going to “keep” any “special” board’s from now on.
A ton of good advice here! I thought about about it all, and it dawned in me I’ll have to test shorter board’s then I probably should be riding as I’m shaping now.
Anyway, the plan is to also build my dream LONG BOARD aft being nagged by a family friend who surfs. I’m actually Glad I finally tried his 9’6" hog sized board!
btw - these nose rider board’s I’d say could be a “go to” board for anyone who just surf small weak swells, but still do most basic surfing maneuvers… FYI the long board could even teach a seasoned surfer to improve bottom turns and cutbacks…I got even gutsy and popped off lip on a wave or two! For short boarders it’s a little less exciting at first. But after a hr I was like - wow! I gotta get one! So I’m saving dollars to get a blank to build with my own grubbies - a nice flat rockered kicked up tail beauty!
As for guys/gals who want to ride their short board - that’s your call. The thing I noticed about boards in general is: if it can easily float you, and you can paddle it well for at least a hr - you should be ok. If you cant hang-then you should definitely size up. If you like shorter - just widen + slightly go thicker…if you want a bit longer than your normal psb you should be fine if it’s built for ur weight range. That said, I already have plans to design a six ten egg shape - prob a single or quad? I also want maybe attempt a tri plane hull bottom, but I’d like know how to foil it properly. But being I’m in my normal weight range, and I’m getting stronger as I have to lift my dad up out of the chair as he’s get n old. So my arm strength is good to go! For stamina I could jog to the beach etc…etc…but yeah man, when I start long boarding it should get me good and strong in a week! Folk’s I tried paddlin it, but I didn’t like it to catch waves. But for someone who just paddle around to say just get wet you are set! Then you’ll see people catching waves, then -so wil l probably try hang n ten! whatever you decide to do -just be sure your minds into it, as well as body - otherwise don’t even go out.
I’m fifty -going on 51, but I don’t do anything if I’m not sure of myself.nuff said.
My perspective at 61, squat thrusts and push-ups are a must …
As already stated, be certain your heart is in good enough condition to paddle out.
Swimming and bicycle riding are great for stamina, but regular wave time is a necessity to restore and maintain take-off timing/reflexes.
Many new types of gravity boards are available to ride on land, honing balance and reflexes.
Also a strange fin shape.
excelandexcess - I too have been in and out, out of the water… I’m thinking that if I shape a nose rider I can build confidence, and go and add surf some of the gentler breaks - just to get body in shape. There’s a few real slow mo waves/spots that I surfed that are perfect for just
Surfing. But you, or anyone - who just want to glide, do some basic maneuvers, and just enjoy some easy - not too crazy surfing.
Hi,
I’m from Brazil, 50 years old and my English is not so good. We don’t have a forum like this in Portuguese.Congratulations!
