What about the physical AND Mental capacity of what went down on board(s)?
Huge things happened in the water. Historical rides, wipeouts, survivals, and, that too.
So-did those guys push themselves FURTHER, in life threatening situations, because
they were loco on drugs, or because they could completely focus and be more in tune
(or something) with everything going on? Therefore overcoming boundaries in the blink
of an eye and doing the inconcievable ! (i know, i’m kidding) DRUGS 'ER BAD
Would this have gone down without mind altering substances? Probably, eventually.
But, for history’s sake, and the weirdness and radicalness that it was, it did happen.
I used to be really in tune with my board sometimes. Skating at night has some good
memories. Complete awareness mentally and physically, to the point of being
immaculate. Learned a lot with that.
Snowboarded a whole bunch too. Powder days with that? Fah-get about it. Put your
mind to it and do it, no questions asked.
Some of the best things I ever did on them snowsticks was due to L. Learned a lot
there too.
I can see how they were, how you say, compelled-(maybe?) to do what they did.
Made me do a lot I originally would’nt. And yes, I’m probably lucky nothing went
bad and I never got hurt. All I got was good from it. Learned a lot.
So haven’t done the surf with it yet.
But one thing is certain, I got into board building for one main reason,
Acid tints-