Surfing "form"??

The last 2 months have been pretty crap for me and my surfing. An elbow op, and a stuffed back have meant i didnt surf for 6 weeks. The last few , the surf has been total crap, just junk.

This is the worst form i’ve ever been in, and it gets harder to get up for the early, and if im by myself, i definately get more fussy with the waves. I know when we get decent weather and waves again ( gotta be soon SURELY!!! ), i’ll stuff myself full of waves and all will be good again, but at the moment, the waves,weather, and my body are all against me. Its frustrating.

Anyone else notice go through/gone through this?

My Father taught me to paddle out no matter what, in crappy 1’ slop if need be. Nothing but nothing keeps your head in it like this does.

We have scads of ‘locals’ who only paddle out when its good, those same guys suffer because they are not only out of shape but the skills you need to keep sharp get dull. I dont mind, I surf slop, perfection, all of it.

I think its harder to surf 1’ slop than 6’ perfection.

I built a fish … a real full ugly one so I could revel in virtually nothing. FL has no surf in the summer … NONE unless there’s a hurricane. Some years NONE!! So the fish kept me going … kept me sane even in -1 foot junk. I wouldn’t even check the surf. Just pick up the fish after work and walk to the end of the street. I could surf almost every day and even enjoy it.

I totally agree guys, im also a world class grovellor, i’ll surf knee high with my twin keel happily. But it hasn’t even been surfable, firstly it was dead flat, and i mean dead flat. The last few days its been quite sizey, but onshore, and messy as. I just got back from a dawn patrol, it was supposed to drop to 3-4ft, but it looks like a good 5-6ft, solid, messy, onshore, and i wouldnt surf this when im in great form, so im back home trawling sways!!!.

A lot of the surf i go out in is knee to head. Im pretty happy with that. Up to maybe 1/2OH if its good shape is an occasional bonus, but i dont need huge stuff to keep me happy, and i dont surf big waves.

By next week, we SHOULD be back to normal, and im off mon to thurs, so i should be back into it then, fingers crossed.

I might add, this is the 4th time i’ve tried to get my new board wet, and the 4th time i’ve come home dry.


A long board helps when the waves are really small. It will also help you get back into shape. Just don’t get a board that you can’t carry without hurting yourself. My quiver starts at 5’ 10" and goes up to 10’ long. During the head high max days I like riding the 7’ to 8’ range, usually 2 1/2" to 3" thick. Knee high or less, is long board time.

Riding long calf high waves can be fun. For me skimming across the water gives me a rush, the longer the ride the more fun. With a long board the paddle back out isn’t as much work.

Since I have to drive to the beach from my hilly haven I often find I take a look at the surf and decide it’s not worth it.

Older I get the choosier I become and can’t be bothered driving round in a surf check oddessey.

Always hated really small waves.

Longboards cured that and injected the fun back into them but I’m still adverse to onshore slop.

So I take my folding bike in the back of the wagon. Surfs no good I go for a cruise.

Brilliant for running errands around town too. Don’t burn up dinosaurs and park anywhere I please. So much faster and out in the breeze getting exercise.

Also take my girls for a kayak paddle in the river if the waves are no good. Still aquatic but no hassling, drop ins or crowds.

Good idea to have an enjoyable alternative to surfing up your sleeve.

I have a broken rib that doesn’t want to heal(some say it’s because I wouldn’t stop surfing on it…NAHHHH)

Because of over compensating for the broken rib, I tore the tendons in my left elbow…now THAT did keep me out of the water.

I still managed to surf in Mexico this past week…but I’m paying for it now.

Waiting to see if I have to have surgery on the rib…so I’m out for at least a month.

…Totally bummed…

Do your best Mark Cunningham impersonation… bodysurf. Invest in a set of good fins, and swim into a few. You can get a great workout with little impact on the body. And you can catch waves that are literally unridable any other way.

Hey Mark

Totally hearing ya

My wife hase been sick for about 3 weeks now and can’t drive so I have to take her and pick her up from work every day.

Normally the time I would be surfing, mountain biking, exercising or whatever I choose to do.

Only really had 1 day of the weekend to try and get a surf in, and as you know, its been flat for weeks.

This sort of thing seems to happen all the time.

I find that my biggest problem is that I don’t surf often enough to build good core surf fitness

I go to the beach and think “I wish my SUP was finished”

It is now glassed and ready for fin box install before sanding

Wont be long now til I have another form of water activity.

Maybe somthing you should look at.


I really need to do some other form of excercise definately. Something aerobic so i can fight the battle with my small but creeping beer belly. THought of the gym, but i cant think of anything worse. The best for me would be swimming, early morning, when waves are just non existant. Or surfing longer in the junk.

On a lighternote, i got some ok, inconsistent, bumpy but not too bad waves this morning after a terrible 12 hour night shift. Only stayed out for 20 mins coz i was stuffed, but i was happy with my new board in the 4 or 5 waves i got. Still need time to get used to it but so far so good.

Did me wonders to just be out there in the thick seaweed ( haha ) and paddling around. Definately lost some paddle fitness, but nothing major. Not the best surf, but i feel much happier.

Hope all you other guys out of the water get back in soon.