The subject came up in another thread, but I don’t think I’ve seen it get its own shot before. Seeing the phrase was one of those great Sway moments for me, as I realized I have never consciously had any “surfing goals”. Or have I? Maybe…
Are you kidding??? Ha! As a soul who has ended up building/living a life with surfing as a primary pillar/foundation, I have had to work hard mentally to “stay cool.” By that I mean - as I’ve aged, and ridden the pendulum of physical health maintainence, I’ve had occasion to get so negative about crappy surf/health… So,
One goal is (probably my moost important); Get wet = good; catch a wave and make the drop = really good; and, make a/some good waves = Great. Try not to “prove” anything.
Another - recent, again; Work at staying in shape, so when the good and big days come I won’t totally kook out - hopefully. The days of “resting on my laurels” are long gone.
Small goal for “heavy” days: Wave selection. Even though I’m only 44, getting pitched and pounded to many times takes a physical toll. I’d rather ride less good waves than get worked by more…
My goal is to make a flawless board (quality) that allows me to surf to my full potential…I know it’s in me and it will keep me building and surfing for a long time…not quite sure I’ll ever reach it but I guess that’s the beauty of setting your sights high…
get mental…ummm…be mentally prepared to be able to surf the GOOD days (whatever day of the week that might be) with right board with me to maximaize that days surf. As well as be physically prepared.
I started to surf competitively (amateur) a few years ago to stave off my complacency in the water. I notched them up a bit each year and actually achieved them. I don’t really intend to carry those much further now.
I now have some board shaping/construction goals, but lack some resources to really achieve them right now.
In short, currently, it would be to build my own boards (long & short) and enjoy riding them. I don’t see myself doing that better than the two local shapers that currently feed my habit right now (Buehn and Forstall), but they may not be shaping as long as I hope to be surfing.
Taylor , I’m right there with ya on that one. I’m 38 and I live for the days when the point gets over 8 feet.
Unfortunately that only happens a handful of times a year so unless you keep the blade sharp you’re gunna be a spectator.
I remember words from Darrick Doerner about keeping your edge and being prepared : “Training is the solution. Nutrition is the key. Equipment has to be the best you can get”
Not a bad mantra if you want to not become an old bastard before your time.
Fun and enjoyment are paramount; appreciation and gratitude for every go-out…performance a rare gift to be treasured but recognized for what it is : fleeting, illusory and capable of bringing out the worst in people.
I work for myself , so I have some flexibility to chase surf but I have a wife and daughter whos needs are far more important tham my going surfing. Recognizing that and having a more gracious attitude when the surf is good and I can’t get a go-out is one of my primary surfing goals.
I get stoked on the elders around me who are the real deal and who share the stoke.
I’m 44 too… and with that in mind, I’ve made peace with the fact that I have more waves behind me than ahead of me. So my goal is to simply keep surfing for as long as my health allows. And after that… building boards will be my surfing. And after that… put me in the ground, please.
I just want to keep enjoying it every time i go out. I’d also like to get to a point where i can go out comfortably in 6+ waves, nothing really big ( no bigger than 8ft ), just when the waves do get decent, i’d like to be able to get out there and have a go. But, other than that i have soooo much fun surfing in the usual junk i cant stop, though if you go often enough, i find you do get some great chest to head high days with friends, where you just have a ball, ie, great shape, AND you surf good, cant beat those days.
As I approach my 53rd year on this planet, I’m making it a point to finish the three blanks I’ve had sitting in my shaping room from before the Clark closure. They’re templated and cut and have been patiently waiting to be unleashed from their crusty skins. Some personal issues and plain laziness has kept me from being motivated to finish them, but the time has come. I hope I’ll be posting some pics of the finished product before the year is up. Just need to rekindle the stoke.
I was out the other day and there was a guy, about 20 years old and about 25 lbs overweight, with a big, thick, newish longboard. He apologetically told me at one point that he was “only learning,” although he did get a few all the way to the beach.
It was just the two of us out, and I told him that I wished I was just learning, too. To have it all over again… all those sessions ahead of you. All the places you’ve never been and hopeto go to someday. You’re first tuberide. The stoke that seeps into your dreams at night. The combination of feelings that can only be described as victory and panic the first time you make it out on a BIG day, eat it on a set wave, and get caught inside with the current, rocks, and bombs bearing down on your head.
I want five or six good clean lined-up point waves on my quad fish. 2 or 3 feet overhead. About 100 yard sprints will do. Just been waiting for the right swell, tide, and wind when I don’t have to work. Maybe this weekend. Mike