Surfing is...

Surfing is_________________…

surfing is a chance to get together with my family or friends.

suring is a chance to be alone.

surfing is liqiud dance.

surfing is fun.

surfing is therapuetic.

surfing is frustrating.

surfing is where my spirit seems to feel most free.

surfing is stoke.

surfing is…

surfing is… be happy after session

…something not to be taken for granted. Every wave, every turn, the vistas, the friends and their ideas, the equipment we scrutinize so deeply, is very precious. Until a time comes when your activity level stops in its tracks, one will not know how great of a time we are having. Enjoy what you have, while you have it. Surfing is a Wonderful ride.

Happy Mothers Day!

expression, harnessing the power of the ocean and earth, oneness

thank god for surfing, if i had to choose a religion, it would be surfing

If waves could tell stories on what they have seen before they reach the shore, what a tale they could tell.

Surfing is being able to ride literally on Gods creation and feel the pulse of the earth itself. Every ride is different because every pulse is different and every pulse was created from nothing before it began it’s journey to the shore to expend it’s energy. When our energy melds with the energy of the pulse it stokes the fires of our souls and only we know that unexplainable feeling. It is one of those things that if you know, you know and if you don’t; no one can ever explain it to you. No wonder it’s addicting.


Easiest way to describe it in one word.

supposed to be a good time… whatever happened to that, anyways?

a great way to escape.

best shared with love ones.

when everything about the board suits my tastes. The flex pattern, the fins, the outline all combine to give an awareness of the board and wave, but no distractions. When the wave is not too big and not too small there is no fear and no frustration. The view to be enjoyed is a morphing, warping wall of water.

These things will totally consume the senses.

There will be no room in the mind to consider things such as who made the board, its colours. These are part and parcel of surfing and to be enjoyed later, but not the purest act of surfing.

In my surfing world there is no room for religeon, not in the water, nor on dry land, your world may be different.

Surfing is a religeon, in its own right. The devotion and commitment to a personal belief in an activity which brings us closer to the understanding of ourselves.

I had an interesting experience a few years ago. I heard some people approaching my little creole shack where I was living in at the time. I was a foriegner, and not proficient at the local language, so when they started speaking french and talking about quality of life, all I could guess was they were from the local council checking up on peoples standards of living. After all, I was living in a small two room stone and tin shack with no amenities, and very few possesions, most of which were surfboards laying scattered around

Then they pulled out the book with the cross on it, and the penny dropped. With my limited french I tried to let them down easily, and try and explain my situation. I did not want to offend them, yet I did not want to listen to people preaching about something I had no belief in.

I heard them use the word religeon, so I started to explain to them, very simply in my bad french accent, that surfing was my religeon. They looked a little confused, as there were very few foriegners living in this part of the world, let alone an older single guy with next to nothing.

My religeon, as I explained to them, involved waking in the morning, crossing the road and going into the surf, into nature, catch some waves, challenge myself, challenge nature. I’m sure they were a little confused.

Then, I explained, I go to work, pointing down the road to where I worked, and my work was making boards to go surfing. The money I earn allows me to go to the supermarche and buy food to live on.

It was a bit difficult to explain in my limited french and bad accent, but by the blank look of almost disbelief, I guess I had given them something to think about.

And it made me think too, and realise, that this all-encompassing pursuit of surfing self gratification was definitely my religeon. I am not as physically involved or commited now as I was back then, but my mind still surfs every moment of every day.

Definitely an all-encompassing religeous experience. And I didn’t even mention getting tubed.

Surfing is freedom… and inner peace generator…

Let me put it this way…A bad day of surfing is better than a good day at work…Well unless you are Kelly Slater or any pro!

A monkey, a football, soft lit candles with the boogie nights soundtrack…;>


it’s whatever you want it to be…


Access to unencumbered flight through which we can access weightlessness,with practice we can thread together elementals to sustain weightlessness, that is the simple goal that frees us of the worlds encumberments, all in preparation for the time we all can trancend the material world and its petty concerns and judgements…

…Out the back after squeaking the current through the micro gap in the reef to the vortex on the invisible point at an archival reef sensitive to the way south swells…30 years of study to be there for the one wave that shows ten days a year that runs from the Alpha to the Omega breathing the air, after the petrospew jetski is long gone ,taking me back to commune with thousand year old wave riding comrades in spirit and in submission to planetary forces driving surge through this path worn in the reef topography ,watch those rocks from the Van Loi running aground , the repair to the reef was never completed, man undoes perfection that takes centuries to complete… , Again to prone ride after the wind change chops the face beyond acceptable contemporary acceptable limits for narrow judgements and still cover 100yards of ocean surface flying free off chop face sprayed and setting up third and fourth reforms paddling hard to run against the current with this southern surge… SURFING IS A Gift given to me by a generous and loving spirit that also loved to surf…ambrose…momentarily freed

Well said Ambrose.

I am not so religeous about it any more, but I am definitely free.

is an expression of inner self in communion with mother earth…

I can totally relate to solosurfer’s riding the pulse. Even my learning to surf wife could understand that phrasing.

For me it is an escape. If the wave is not too big (which is fun too) surfing is… a chance to dance with the wave and be one with God’s creation. For that momment nothing else matters. Then the rest of life returns and I can’t wait to get back in the water.


4est, I completely agree with you bro. However, I look at it on any wave. Being enveloped in a big wave is just as soulful.