Posted last week about free laps with a red deck/bottom airbrush. Bottom went fine. Flipped over did the deck and I got a two-tone red splotch! Everyone in here told me it’d be fine and the same color, that you wouldn’t be able to see the free laps. Well, yes, you can. Epoxy board. Will have to tell the client that it’s an “acid splash!”
Distressed
Sorry to see what happened to the board. I just wanted to ask how you measured out the pigment because I was thinking about doing a tint on my next EPS. What I was think was to do it the same way I have done with Pol. resin, mix out as much part A as I needed for both sides, pigmenting, then separating in half (or whatever portion) adding part B to half- do bottom, when ready flip and take the second half of pigmented A adding the appropriate amount of part B then doing the other side. Is this how you did it???
Joe~
this was a red airbrush and just a lam coat. Wonder if the hotcoat will make it more even…
maybe now try to cover it with some pinlines or thick lines
you cant do free laps with resin tints,well you can but it will look like shit …it could be possible but the color would all have to be the same and very opaque, but still just tape the laps and dont take the chance i guess…anyway back to the airbrush thing, you lamed the top and bottom right?.. and thats how it looks all the way around the lap?..it really should not have turned out like that. sometimes red paints can have bad reactions with resin… crystallizing, bleeding some … maybe that was it,? did you notice it just after you did the bottom and the deck wasnt glassed yet? or was it once both were done that you saw it?..looks like i have more questions than answers, but thats not supposed to happen…i would possibly blame it on the red?
I was one who said just go for it. I’m surprised you had problems, and I’m sorry it happened. I had no expectation this would occur, and I’d like a clear step by step description of your process.
I will say that I once had serious even-color trouble with a red airbrushed/poly resin board before. I laid it in the sun a while with something laying over part of it and the board “sunburned” terribly, with a markedly different, brownish patch of color where it had been partly covered. The splotch later evened out, to my further suprise. What brand color were you using? I wonder if your color will even out a while later? In the meantime, and with no certainty that it will, a pigmented finish coat may be in order, or a wide color stripe along the edge of the lam.
I still don’t understand why there would be a color difference, though I didn’t know it was EPS you were using, and I have no experience with it myself. Color is color, the resin shouldn’t have affected it, and certainly not the application of resin by squeegee in a rail wrap, or in a second lam coat.
We may not be able to formulate an acceptable explanation, but let’s know how the work went, so we can speculate where the problem lies.
Client loved the “acid splash” - will add some pins around and all the way down. There’s usually always a solution.
If your in business and your selling to paying customers, would it be wise to already know how to glass/tint/pigment to a high standard before putting your product out in the market.
This isn’t a high profile biz, just make boards for friends and friends of friends. And, I’ve seen plenty of semi botched boards from the high profile guys, living in a high profile Ca location. Boards are sold at a discount or shelved depending on condition. Red airbrush is another animal and sometimes you never know exactly what you’ll wind up with. BTW, you have an explanation for what happened? I actually have made plenty of boards for people with 100% successful results. Of course, there’s a smudge or fingerprint here and there. But that’s what makes them diff from boards made in a sterrile hospital looking atmosphere. Heck, I love to shape under mango and palm trees! People want something made from a machine, that’s cool. But if people want something made from a human, then they get them from me. In essence, it all boils down to how well the board performs, doesn’t it? I’ve seen plenty of “perfect” looking boards, touting the “perfect” tint job riden by the kookiest of the kooks, only to wind up on the rocks at a point break.
Most importantly if it rides well he won’t care about it anyhow
220g reds and oranges tend to splotch more often, next time try spraying a couple coats of clear acrylic over your paint job to set and seal before lam… also try to use the best acrylic paints you can buy. I mix my paints with clear arcylic insted of water… My glasser just recently changed to a new clearer / brighter resin. They said they have been having problems with colors and free laps with this new stuff… The clear acrylic over the paint seems to work.
I had warned him about the red splotch or “acid splach” as I like to think of it. It’s good it was on the deck nose instead of the bottom, wax will hide it.
Howzit 220, I've had the same problem a few times and have done a lot of mind searching to figure out what the cause is. Still not sure since it doesn't happen all the time. But I can say it's not just a red color thing because I've had it happen to blue also. Will be doing the deck on a board with reverse red overspray today and as I was cleaning up the bottom lay up lap I was telling myself I hope there's no color seperation when I do it. It may have something to do with the amount of paint sprayed on the blank. I think I posted a thread about this problem a few years back and there was no clear cut answer for it.Aloha,Kokua
I really think that with my epoxy longboards, I’ll stick to either clear or light pigment…no more acryllic airbrush.
Thanks
Howzit220, During the lamination of the deck today at first it looked like Iwas getting some seperation but in the end there was none, lucky again. By the way these are probably the last boards that will come out of my shop since I will be tearing it down very soon and leaving Kauai for hopefully just an extended vacation. Our house is now in escrow and we have to be out by August 15th. It's been one hell of a ride for almost 35 years here and with some good kuck and a cheap house I will be back.Aloha,Kokua
consider uv exposure as a factor
uv resin?
red is a high tech art
a good red is a major accomplishment!
pigment is the call
the test is ongoing as red fades way heavy
more than al the all the other colors
how bout tint the gloss to help even up the color?
…ambrose…
To paraphrase an anonymous source: the imperfection makes the board uniquely the customer’s.
Red can be a pain in the butt. Some reds are very unstable. They crystalize, they bleed, they change color, etc. Grumbacker stuff is useless. The Liquitex is better but sometimes that can even go wrong. Then there are the floresents. I have lots of stories I could tell on those. The 80’s were so challenging. The cockroches used to eat the red right off the blanks and when you smashed em they’d be floro red inside. They also liked the floro green.
But as far as why side 1 will react differently to resin than side 2, I’m in agreement with Kokua on that one, I don’t know either, but it happens. With poly or epoxy. We do boards with two different batches of resin sometimes and I’ve seen two different batches react different to the red paint on the same side. And everything was wet together. So on reds you just have to be real careful. I don’t ever use reds over the rail. It shows rail shatters really bad anyway. Try keeping red just on the flats and if your using red on a deck, laminate the deck first, reverse lap style. Use Liquitex only or design master spray paints for small graphics. They generally won’t bleed. Make sure the paint has had ample time to dry.
Good job of selling the “acid splash”.