Ladies and Gentlemen,
i am a longtime reader of this forum and have posted a few times. This forum has been the most important source of information that helped me to shape a dozen surf boards in a garage and i am stoked. thank you for that, honestly, the info and individual help on this forum is invaluable! I’d need advice for one of my latest creations, a quad fish, 6’0" x 20 3/4 x 2 5/8, slight single to double concave, epoxy over EPS foam. It is a purple pigment tint that turned pink (not enough pigment), voila:
flat rockered
i have made plywood quad fins for that board:
back fins:
fin size: 4" high, chord length 3 1/2"
position: trailing edge 6 5/16" (16cm) from tail and 3 5/16" (8,5cm) off the rail
front fins:
fin size: 4 1/2" high, chord length 4 1/2"
position: trailing edge 11 1/2" from tail, 1 1/4" off rail
I don’t mind the colour, I am writing because it does surf great, BUT ONLY if my stance after the take off is EXACTLY right. I’ve taken off on waves, leaned into the bottom turn and the board just went straight. I remember waves on which i wildly kept repositioning my back foot… I especially remember a huge wave on my last surftrip to Morocco where that happened - for me it was one of the biggest days I was ever out, a massive swell, 17sec period, after endless paddling in strong currents I finally manage to position myself right in the lineup, I get a set wave, wow, this is big, just go, endless drop down a massive face, slightly choppy, damn, this is not going to work, the board is swerving from side to side, I try to correct backfoot, damn, doesn’t work, I am leaning into the bottom turn, aaaaaahhhhhh… wipeout!
whenever my backfoot is a bit off it doesn’t want to turn or it feels like i have to force the board to turn …whenever the backfoot is right ( right on top of the fin cluster), the board works just fine - fishy, fast, drivey…
You call that SWEET SPOT, right? It’s TOO SMALL!
Q: how can I make it BIGGER?
Answer: “work on your take off and bottom turn”
… you are probably right… I am just an average surfer, unfortunately not getting more than 4 weeks of surf each year ( I am 33 years old and live 10 hours away from the next break)… so surfing tipps are also welcome, really!
BUT… this is a design forum… and I hope some change in design will help me widen the sweet spot of this board… maybe fin position or fin type/ shape?
…and I have built another board for a friend, slightly pulled in tail and nose compared to the pink board, with a thruster fin set up, which does not show these problems AT ALL! no matter how I land on it after taking off, it seems to do what it is supposed to do!!! the problem is, my friend will not give it back to me (This is me in the pic, I should have kept it!)
widepoint more in center, more curve in outline, a bit less volume…
now, maybe I am comparing apples and oranges here, but is there a way to make the pink board as predictable as the thruster, to cure the symptoms described above?
any help greatly appreciated…
cheers!