After much trial and error I have come up with my first template that I will print full-size and trace onto some tempered hardboard.
It is 6’0" x 11 1/4" x 19 3/4" x 14 7/8" single-wing swallow tail.
I’ve done as much research as I can find related to increasing/decreasing the size of boards this size template will yield without becoming distorted or whatever.
I figure a safe bet is +/- 4"
I also understand there is an increase of 1/4" width for every 2" in length.
Below is my template outline and a table I made up with the dimensions based on what I can find…
6’2" x 11 1/4" x 20" x 14 7/8"
6’1" x 11 1/4" x 19 7/8" x 14 7/8"
6’0" x 11 1/4" x 19 3/4" x 14 7/8" (starting template size)
If you continue the curve a few inches past the midpoint on each side when you cut it out, you can easily lengthen or shorten it as planned when you trace it on your blank.
I notice that as your curve reaches the midpoint ends, it gets pretty straight. By 'continuing the curve' I mean to just keep the curve advancing towards the center of the template. A spin template for a 6 footer might easily end up more than 3 feet long if you do it that way. Those extra inches at the midpoint ends are where it should flare slightly inward. As you bump out your widepoint on longer versions, that inward flare from each end will meet in the center and create a continuous curve when you trace it on your blank. Using your formula of 1/4" per 2" of length, you can predetermine exactly how much flare to put in.... or you can just sort of wing it.
If you're not too hung up on exact dimensions, it can ultimately be a matter of shifting the template around until the curve looks good to you. I think it was Bill Thrailkill who said that you can basically screw the dimensions as long as the curve looks right. I would agree. As long as you're not doing a custom for a nitpicky customer, don't sweat a fraction here or there.
As johnmellor is saying, “don’t sweat a fraction here or there.” Very true. Some of the best boards, and most fun boards, have come out of mistakes. You can go 5’10" x 20" or 5’10" x 17 1/2" depending on what you want. That’s the beauty of it. Plot points and go. Use another board, or fishing pole or something to trace out your template instead of printing it out on paper. I’ve never seen anyone trace a paper template well because in case you haven’t noticed, paper doesn’t give you a good edge to trace. It really is more difficult and time cunsuming to try to tape together each sheet, cut it out and then trace the paper template. Happy shaping.
Thanks, John. I’m in agreement about the curve as opposed to dimensions. I’m not hung up on dimensions I just figure I have to start somewhere. I just figured a plain vanilla 6 foot template would be a good place to start my experimentation. The good news is my first couple of “real” boards are for my pals that are brave enough to ride them. Thanks again for your comments.
Definitely agree about not getting hung up on dimensions. My process to make this template was done in Illustrator. Having been a user of the program for 10 years I’ve gotten pretty handy with the pen tool for making curves by sight until I find something I like. I have no idea of the dimensions until I create it in actual size (6’). The other dimensions are not planned.
I am familiar with the 8 1/2 x 11 multi sheet template method of taping them together. I have a different way. I create a document say 72" x 12" actual size then go to a FedEx office location with over sized printing service. The have an “Osè” printer which will print a continuous actual size printout of the template.
I get a razor blade and get a nice cut. I spray 3M super 77 on the hardboard and because the paper is kinda thick, the sharpee conforms to the line. Overall, it’s pretty clean. Now I just need to fair my curves and I may have a functional template!
Btw- the over-sized printouts are very affordable at $4.80 each.
You can skip a whole lot of steps by simply plotting your key dimensions directly on the hard material and cutting out. Main effort should go to fairing the curve with a miniplane and sanding block after you cut. It is at this stage that rocking the template back and forth to identify any flat spots or warbles comes in to play. It is also the stage where ignoring the predetermined dimensions should go out the window. Once you have the fair curve you can place the template on the blank to 'hit' your plotted dimensions. It may take a bit of shifting here and there but as long as you're not too worried about where the stringer is or where the ends of the template are, you can usually shift the template around a bit (side to side and/or fore and aft) to hit your marks. That is also where the extension of the template curve pays off. I almost always cross the end of the template over the stringer and often have the template shifted forward or aft to 'make it fit.' I do mark on the edge where the template crosses over the stringer so I can match the other side. After you've made a few templates, it's surprising how many outlines you can create with those. Don't be afraid to use a short section of the template to fill in a gap or smooth out a warble. It might not be as easy or accurate for reproduction as using full size 1/2 templates but creativity will become more of a factor.
I don't think drafting 101 is a school subject available much anymore? We used to use 'French Curve' templates to connect the dots on various drawings. Using a template pattern for a surfboard outline can be exactly the same only on a larger scale.
I wish I could edit my last post... where I said the bit about 'ignoring the dimensions should go out the window', I meant ignoring the dimensions should come in to play.
I.E. - it is at this stage where you trust your eye and hands to shape the smoothest curve you can even if it doesn't hit your predetermined marks.
I hear ya. As a matter of fact, I’ve abandoned the swing template and made myself a spin template for the same board and extended the curve to make sure I don’t get any bumps. As a noob I consider it a breakthough! For some reason, a spin template seems more manageable than a half or swing template??? Gonna cut it out and fair it out tomorrow night after work. If its decent I’ll post it. Peace.
Swing template or Spin template...whatever......how many hours did you spend with your computer design? Be honest.
Drive down to Lowes. Pick up a 4x8 sheet of "hardboard" for about 14 bucks. Have the Lower Tech than me Worker make a few cuts with the pannel saw.......now you have 4 boards that need to be made into "templates".
Rip off one short board, one Fish, one egg/longboard and one extra template for something special.....trust me...you are not the first person to rip a template......and as a noob you will not be Al M or Rusty with a spin/swing template.....
The straight edge on your template is your friend....the spin/swing are for later...when you get good like JohnM....
I am a backyard guy that used to work on cars. I'm good with tape.....mark out a few dots and make a nice smooth arch with 3/4 inch tape......don't be afraid to rip a template.....China already has the design on their machine. Better yet....SurfTech has some great designs......................Stingray............
Find a good local shaper(s) who will let you trace some templates for $20. Gather up the hardboard pieces that Ray mentioned, a drafting pencil, and get in and out in 10 mins. You will still have to true them up as John mentioned, but not like making from scratch.
Computer time from start to finish between 15-20 minutes once i figured out how to “make” a spin template. There was a lot of trial and error and questions along the way. The program I use is an illustration program that essentially draws curves among other things. I got the shape that i liked then it was scaled to actual size, printed and traced on hardboard. Not what I’d call precise by any measure as there no CAD features for precision measurements (which I don’t mind). I don’t have a craftmans background unfortunately so I gotta work with what I know.
Someone mentioned “Surftech”. Used to do ding repair for a surf school on Maui. They used alot of Surftechs, NSP and Boardworks. The only thing I can say good about those Companies is that they are a great source for templates. You’re gonna sit at your computer and do it your way anyhow; So I don’t know why you even ask. Do it your way and ignore everything that has been advised by John, Pete and Ray. You will train your eye to follow a power point, but you won’t have a “Shapers’ Eye” because your are doing everything you can to avoid a basic training exercise that every good hand shaper goes thru. Ce le vi…
Hi McDing, I actually spent last night in the garage performing analog experimentation based on the comments from John, Pete and sting ray. Good times.
I have another option for your template material. I use 5’x5’ sheets of 1/8" poplar. I get it at a local wholesaler who sells it for the backing of kitchen cabinets. Since it is ply it does not warp or have a memory so it lays flat on the blank. Since it is 5x5 you can easily get 3 spin templates up to 10’.