Ok, been racking the grey matter and ive got a couple of ideas of how to go about it, but would be great to get tips/ideas on doing this type of thing;
Id like to do the back 1/3 of the board in a colour, that wraps around he deck, rails and bottom (one colour to start with), the front 2/3 of the board is just clear resin.
The junction between the clear and the coloured can be a little blurred, id rather it look al ittle arty, rather than a clear cut line beteen clear and colour!
this kind of thing is pretty popular at the moment...must be someone out there who has done this and has some good tips!!???
ps. thanks JR surfboards Gold Coast, hope ya don't mind me borrowing the images!
I do 2 stages on boards like that.... The color and then afterwards the clear.
I roll and cut the cloth. Figure out where I want the color to go and then drape the board with parchment paper, tape just the ends past the cloth and onto the deck.....MAKE IT TIGHT.......BUT NO TAPE ON CLOTH...
This gives a nice edge for the pigment to follow... AND a nice place to set your squeegee if needed. it gives a nice line with just a bit of bleed. looks straight from 3 feet away but has a bit of blur up close.
Tuck the rails like normal...... Pull parchment after its gelled.
not sure if you’ve already tried this; but, would it be possible to still do the 2-stage with parchment for a bumblebee pattern/stripes? i’m looking to do this on my next board and have been gathering info to make the decision on pigment, spray paint, or airbrush. keep up the great work and thanks for the tips.
Thanks, you answered a question I had asked about in another thread…So you wait until your “colored” job has totally cured and then go back and do the clear, or do you just wait until the color job has gelled enough to not run into the clear? Thanks for the clarification. If you have any more pics(or even better, VIDEO), that would be awesome to see.
Do it like Acqua, but use plastic wrap instead of paper, for either tints or opaques. Mask the opposite side with paper though when doing the first side. The trick to a clean line is keep the bulk of the resin well away from the line and only squeegee a small amount toward it as it begins to slightly gel. Let it go harder as the tape/plastic is removed, then lam the rest and go over the nose again if clear is used. Just be sure the color is gelled enough so it doesn’t bleed into the clear. The line will never be sharp using this method, especially around the rails, but some want that look. If you want a very clean line do it in pieces: Mask blank and color lam nose using 4 oz. Carefully cut the line so you won’t need a pinline. Clear laminate the whole thing, and put the hotcoat heavy over the 4 oz. edge so it’ll sand flat.
