I’m sure nearly everyone knows this already but just in case, I’ll post this anyway.
Not sure if this will always work but while I was working with UV catalised poly resin I neglected to leave the hotcoat long enough for the wax to float completely and got a couple of large tacky patches after the rest had set.
As you know, what the wax does is to stop the air coming into contact with the resin and allows it to fully cure, following this logic I thought I’d try wrapping the tacky areas in cling film (I think you call it ceran wrap in the rest of the world) pressing out as much of the air as possible. Anyway, I took the board outside in the sun again and left it for ten minutes, removed film and found that it had cured, not quite as hard as the rest but enough to sand.
always always always mix the living shit outa your mix before you cat up…and dont cat too much and stand your resin in a bucket of hot water, makes it thin and flowey…and the wax will rise like the clappers.
Standing it in the bucket of hottish water is good, however I think I over did this last winter and had it kick way too fast for my amateurish glassing technique. The winter up this end of the country is not good for that seabase poly resin, it was virtually solid until mid april!!!
The tacky hotcoat hasn’t been a problem for me before I think I just over worked the resin trying to get it spot on level and remixed the wax into the resin in a couple of places, just need to leave it a while longer in future.
cover tacky spots with cling flim or waxed paper, leave over night, cuts off the air to the surface and does the same job as the wax. should go hard and then toy can sand it.