i shaped a 10’2" noserider 60’s style board. real full volume with 50/50 rails and some nose concave. now, this was my first board so i wasn’t super comforable with the planer. this caused me to kind of blow it on the last 12 inches of the rail. where i wanted to leave it 50/50 and just have it super pinched, i accidentally made an “up-ish” rail, like a 40/60 or something. i wanted to leave the tail full and square so i didn’t want to take anymore off the tail to fix it how i wanted it. thinking about it now im realizing that this could cause the tail to hold horribly in waves of any size. am i right? any suggestions? i wish i had pictures, but my camera is down for the moment.
By accident,“YOU DONE GOOD!” That is how to do the tail rail on a noserider.
Howzit skinny, Actually that tail will work on a single fin board. I have an old (70's) 8'3" Yater that has a tail like that and it worked unreal in 6 to 8 foot Hanalei. Single fin longboards don't need a sharp edge, usually makes the board some what sticky. Aloha,Kokua
Ditto what Kokua said. That high rail line at the tail should loosen up the board some. Works good on classic logs.
Hi first post here…Great forum here. Great vibes from what i have been reading.
Regarding this post, I saw/rode a board the other day with a convex style tail/rail. The rails rolled up like the mentioned 40/60 almost making a very soft V.
The rider said it helped water flow up and over the tail, therefore holding it in trim better when up on the nose. Is there merrit to this? I am getting a new board shaped and wanting( or willing rather) to try something new. This board is a pintail where I have been riding a square tail similar to a preformer but with a little less hip, maybe closer to a Pavel Channin but with a more squared nose. Will the same concept work with a square tail.
I do fairly well at crosstepping/ noseriding but this board reeaallly seemed to hold in trim while up front.
Thanks and sorry for adding a question and sort oh hijacking this post…
have a great holliday weekend everyone
Brownbus, the first board I ever shaped with a high rail in the tail (in1961) was a 6 inch square tail. It worked great. So go to it, you’ll have fun.
I agree with the other posters, up rails in the tail really enhance the nose-riding performance of 50/50 rail longboards. My first board that I built ( http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/detail_page.cgi?ID=974 ), I purposefully shaped in up rails in the tail. The tail is pretty much like an upside down tail on a modern longboard. It has sharp edges on the upper surface, which helps the water release off the tail. So even though this design sucks water up and over the tail, the edges provide the release needed; the board is WAY faster than I could have imagined. It also nose rides great, almost like it’s part of the wave.
I’ve surfed my board from 3 foot to 12 foot waves, and the board is surprisingly loose and stable (no slide on on big drop bottom turns). This board does have vee in the bottom in the last 1/3 of the board, and I think that really helps loosen it up for rail to rail transitions.
Glass it and ride it, you’ll be surprised!
rich harbour’s “cheater” model step deck is full up at the tail. if r.h. does it, it must be good.