here’s a question…when foiling the blank in the tail, i don’t like to pull too much foam off the deck side in an effort to keep the curve of the deck rocker in the back with the idea it provides leverage and a more forward weighted stance,plus keep the deck stronger in the tail. does this make sense? the prob is to get a nice looking thinned out tail i pull more from the bottom which increases tail rocker off the fins. thats not always a bad thing, but i’m wondering if other shapers even bother with that or if they order blanks with the tail rocker adjusted down to account for this…this is geared toward shaping shortboards from close tolerance blanks…
here’s a question…when foiling the blank in the tail, i don’t like to > pull too much foam off the deck side in an effort to keep the curve of the > deck rocker in the back with the idea it provides leverage and a more > forward weighted stance,plus keep the deck stronger in the tail. does this > make sense? the prob is to get a nice looking thinned out tail i pull more > from the bottom which increases tail rocker off the fins. thats not always > a bad thing, but i’m wondering if other shapers even bother with that or > if they order blanks with the tail rocker adjusted down to account for > this…this is geared toward shaping shortboards from close tolerance > blanks… I just finished a 9’3" for Dale Dobson, I used a 9’8"S, glued to the 9’5"S, extended from center. When I had shaped the bottom rocker to where it was enough, it was still about an inch and a half thick at the end of the tail. This is the time that you need to adjust from the deck, the rear foot is still far enough forward to not stomp that area. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
I’ve been using close tolerance blanks for the most part. On one of the last boards I’ve shaped I used an older 7’9"E and I’d been saving for a 7’2" egg for myself. I had to abandon that plan and use it for another board that was to be 2 7/8". I began to wonder how far past skinning the deck I could go before getting into the lower density foam. Any rough numbers to go by here? 1/8", 1/4", 1/2"??? Where do you start running into problems with crushed foam? Tom>>> here’s a question…when foiling the blank in the tail, i don’t like to > pull too much foam off the deck side in an effort to keep the curve of the > deck rocker in the back with the idea it provides leverage and a more > forward weighted stance,plus keep the deck stronger in the tail. does this > make sense? the prob is to get a nice looking thinned out tail i pull more > from the bottom which increases tail rocker off the fins. thats not always > a bad thing, but i’m wondering if other shapers even bother with that or > if they order blanks with the tail rocker adjusted down to account for > this…this is geared toward shaping shortboards from close tolerance > blanks…
here’s a question…when foiling the blank in the tail, i don’t like to > pull too much foam off the deck side in an effort to keep the curve of the > deck rocker in the back with the idea it provides leverage and a more > forward weighted stance,plus keep the deck stronger in the tail. does this > make sense? the prob is to get a nice looking thinned out tail i pull more > from the bottom which increases tail rocker off the fins. thats not always > a bad thing, but i’m wondering if other shapers even bother with that or > if they order blanks with the tail rocker adjusted down to account for > this…this is geared toward shaping shortboards from close tolerance > blanks… Ordering the rocker adjustment is an alternative a lot of folks overlook. Its easy and only adds about 2 weeks to delivery (clark foam Florida). A rocker adjustment may be pretty critical especially when you make a pronouced change in the original rocker in cases where a finished board is a good bit smaller than the original blank (ie a 7’4" from a 7’11R) – or in your situation where thickness is an issue – a negative tail rocker adjustment would alow you to add back in rocker to the ideal point, giving a thin tail – but not too much rocker. Rocker is a pretty sensative mesurement plus or minus an 1/8th here or there is a big deal – your tail rocker should be set, fairly deliberatly to a specific measurment. Last, custome ordering your rocker adjustment alows you to pick the color of the stringer glue (no extra charge) gives the board a real high end look. Shine http://users.leading.net/~shine
I like to order my tail rocker specifically, usually 6 inches longer than the board I am making, this allows for more volume and a flatter, more gradual tail rocker. I measure every 2 inches with a pencil from 18 inches to the tail. I try to keep the tail rocker at 1/8 to 1/16 depending on the board I am making. To me skimming off the top is a final adjustment if needed. Ordering the rocker adjustment is an alternative a lot of folks overlook. > Its easy and only adds about 2 weeks to delivery (clark foam Florida). A > rocker adjustment may be pretty critical especially when you make a > pronouced change in the original rocker in cases where a finished board is > a good bit smaller than the original blank (ie a 7’4" from a 7’11R) > – or in your situation where thickness is an issue – a negative tail > rocker adjustment would alow you to add back in rocker to the ideal point, > giving a thin tail – but not too much rocker. Rocker is a pretty > sensative mesurement plus or minus an 1/8th here or there is a big deal – > your tail rocker should be set, fairly deliberatly to a specific > measurment. Last, custome ordering your rocker adjustment alows you to > pick the color of the stringer glue (no extra charge) gives the board a > real high end look.>>> Shine