talk story

Every once in awhile you come across a story that’s worth repeating.  I’m not saying its true, not true, or whatever.  This is five years old.  I just came across it in a wetsuit review thread on another forum.  But dang, this guy can talk story!

[quote] I got a 4/3 O'neill off the internet a couple of years ago. Whiskey Militia. Built in hood. I live in San Diego. I'm burning up in the thing. So then I get the cheapest O'neill 3/2 off the internet. Paid about 80 bucks for it. No tape or any seal on the seams at all. Cold water just leaks right in. But it's thin and comfortable.

So I go down the hill in December for what turns out to be
the best day of the winter. I paddle out, telling myself I’m just
going to charge into the first good wave I’m in position for. I’m
undergunned. I stroke into this sucking up left and pretty much free
fell to the bottom. I eat it and get sucked up and over, my shitty
wetsuit unzipping completely and filling up with water. I’m down on the
sandbar, drowning, my wetsuit ballooning and holding me down like a sea
anchor. I struggle to the top, hyperventilating, and take the next 10’
face on the head. Back down to the sandbar, rolling, my exposed skin
freezing.

Back up, gasping for air, wondering if I should cry out for
help. I’m a grey-haired old-guy surfer victim, waiting to drown. I get
the board under me in time to be blasted by another inside barreling
left. I wash in far enough to get on my board and start paddling. I
drag myself up on the beach, shivering.

That cheap ass wetsuit almost drowned me.
[/quote]

Ha! i bought a cheap 2mm Oneill this winter. perfect for summer I thought… it was only 3ft but the zip blew open and I spent longer than usual holding my breath.  my main concern was that I lost my key to the crays.

 

[ re: " my main concern was that I lost my key to the crays."]

 

well, Toasty ,

 

  hopefully next time our very own [ry] crai key  is over your way , you will be able to get it [key] back off him ? 

 

cheers !

  ben

My step brother has been talking up your local barrels there fins. Reckons they are a bit bigger than your photos. I am going to go with your photos as being the more likely case… 

 

old Ry will blend in amongst the locals here no probs. as long as he doesnt pull any aerials. then we will know he is a foreigner