Okay, I used a dremel type tool to do my first board and next thing I knew I could see the floor. Anyway just got a plunge router to do it right, so how do you go about making a good template and attach it to the board so you get a nice straight cut? My first attempt did not go so well and as a result have a wider cut at one end which I will fill with glass I guess.? Any tips for a clueless shaping kook?
Okay, I used a dremel type tool to do my first board and next thing I knew > I could see the floor. Anyway just got a plunge router to do it right, so > how do you go about making a good template and attach it to the board so > you get a nice straight cut? My first attempt did not go so well and as a > result have a wider cut at one end which I will fill with glass I guess.? > Any tips for a clueless shaping kook? Just wanted to say that the router comment cracked me up! See the floor! You’re killin me!. Is there any one around that has a fin box jig you could talk to and maybe use theirs as a refernce. It would take ten pages to explain this little gizmo. JC
Okay, I used a dremel type tool to do my first board and next thing I knew > I could see the floor. Anyway just got a plunge router to do it right, so > how do you go about making a good template and attach it to the board so > you get a nice straight cut? My first attempt did not go so well and as a > result have a wider cut at one end which I will fill with glass I guess.? > Any tips for a clueless shaping kook? You can make your own router jig out of a number of different materials (plywood, aluminum, poly-etheylene board/cutting board material. Typically you will want to guide off the body of the router. So, you’ll need to fasten limiting bars to the front back and sides that will only let the router cut the rectangular shape & size you need. Always used the same size bit. You will need to secure sand paper to the bottom side so it won’t shift. Sometimes clamps are utilized. We use a vaccume seal. But, that’s another story fpr production. You will need to route or drill and cut a hole in the center for the bit to travel in. Scribe marks on the center line front and back interior and exterior. Determine the correct depth cut and set your plunge travel. Line up the sucker and secure it down. Have at it. Or you could go to your box manufacturer and purchase the one they make.
I use 1/4" plexiglass on which i have scribed the centerline and either end of the fin box. Plexiglass is much easier for me cause I can draw long lines on the board and see that I’m lined up. I have small soft rubber strips on the bottom which i double back tape to the board (don’t push the edge just touch). works for me. JR
take a look at this link for an idea of how to make a router jig. you’ll have to adjust for bit size and router base, but you’ll get the general idea. You don’t need guide rails. you can just cut out the rctangle and have the base ride the board (one size only), but they are nice when you can make them adjustable for different sizes and systems. hope it helps JR http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/pdf/surfcomponents/futurefinjig.pdf
Ed, Have you seen this thread from the archives? Swaylock http://www.swaylocks.com/discussion/archive/index.cgi?read=551
Thanks Jim, Tom, JR, and Sway. I think I will be able to wing it now with the info provided! Kinda in a hurry to get these boards finished, leaving for Mex on Monday and wanna take one or both of these babies with me. Thanks again ya’ll and will let you know how they turn out. Maybe even try and get some pics posted, just don’t laugh too hard if I do. ed
Ed, I just put the box or guide down(stainless steel)where I want it to go draw out the outline of the box,remove the box or guide then cut it out freehand with my router.I found by the time I secure the jig/guide I would have been done with 2 or 3 box holes(10-1/2" boxes).Jigs/guide tend to slip at times,and you become too dependent on them. I asked Brad Basham if he ever cut box holes freehand ,and he said,"No,I never even seen it done,but I’ve heard of it though."Herb.
I just put the box or guide down(stainless steel)where I want it to go > draw out the outline of the box,remove the box or guide then cut it out > freehand with my router.I found by the time I secure the jig/guide I would > have been done with 2 or 3 box holes(10-1/2" boxes).Jigs/guide tend > to slip at times,and you become too dependent on them. I asked Brad Basham > if he ever cut box holes freehand ,and he said,"No,I never even seen > it done,but I’ve heard of it though."Herb. I do it just like Herb. Trace it out with a jig and then router it free hand. I go slow and don’t try to cut the full depth on the first pass. Takes a little longer, but keeps the router from trying to pull or jump. Good Luck.
I do it just like Herb. Trace it out with a jig and then router it free > hand. I go slow and don’t try to cut the full depth on the first pass. > Takes a little longer, but keeps the router from trying to pull or jump. > Good Luck. Hey Herb, Cmc thats kinda what I did. Like I said, I reckon I will get good at filling the extra space!! Guess thats what they make that filler stuff for! Thanks guys.