No . I use spin templates to create a plan shape to a given set of dimensions on the blank…the spin templates are a tool , that create a curve that doesn’t need fairing . I haven’t made any new ones for years.
Yep. Parabolics
I love the tricks discussed in this thread:
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the drum trick for an increasing curve
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the usage of circles to parameterize a curve
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I also like to add a classic woodworking way to draw an ellipse (most people here will know this already): http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/tip/a-precise-method-for-drawing-an-ellipse.aspx
This is all math in it’s purest form.
Great discussion guys!
Hey pirate,
My eye just isn’t good enough. I have to use rocker templates. But what my eye can’t see, I can feel on the first turn.
Yorky, you have no idea how right you are. Such a buzz!
i measure rocker in 4 descriptions: flat, medium, curvy, flip/kick
have never felt the need to draw a series of perfect radii to join together to make the rocker curve I want. instead i have an idea of what curve I want in the board and when it looks right it's done.
You’re a funny bunch of guys. I love it. I’m on the case, it might take a me a day or two. Thanks for the numbers.
I hope I wake up one day and don’t care if I can make a board or not, because I’m going surfing. Thanks Yorky, measurements are a good thing, and so are variations in order to blend the curves.
What did Einstein say?
I no expert, just passionately curious.
Enjoying the thread and your comments.
And, I bet you get a bigger buzz then many a seasoned pro.
“I make boards so I can make boards so I can ride waves”
All good. Carry on. 
hahaha, good comment ES, and one I relate to!
Yorky, you are kind of right. To shape the board, is the curve more than numbers. I posted them because Malaroo asked for them, and while you don’t need the exact measurements to design, it makes it easier to talk about.
But on the other hand, I need a certain number of square inches of planing area. So I have my “check numbers” Not as a rule, but as a guide.
And you are right about one thing. I really don’t know how to shape a surfboard. Every time I pick up a planer, I wonder if I’m about to screw up a perfectly good blank. Some count their boards in the thousands, some in the hundreds, I think I’m up to about 15 by now. But they seem to look o.k. when they are done.
Not saying you cant make a very nice board 
All good
Peace
So many numbers.
Dont take this the wrong way, you don’t need em. Cause one day you’ll wake up and realise 'you don’t really know how to SHAPE a surfboard.
But thats ok, because 95% of ‘shapers’ these days can’t anyway!
Length 7’-8"
Template
Nose
- 11 1/4"
- 1'-5 3/8"
- 1'-8 1/16"
- 1'-8 11/16 midpoint
- 1'-8 1/16"
- 1'-5 11/16"
- 1'-1"
Rocker
Nose
- 6"
- 2 9/16"
- 13/16"
- 1/8"
- center
- 1/8"
- 9/16"
- 1 7/16"
- 2 13/16"
The hot coat is curing tonight
OK. I’ll do baseline and measurements. I had a good look at all your diagrams. I can’t decifer the dimensions on your rocker diagram … too. small. I really tried. zoomed in, etc. Can you make the dimensions bigger? Also give us a width, I need a width to do my method. I couldn’t draw your pintail from the dimensions you have listed. Did you draw the outline in separately? Nice board, Nice blending of curves.
The diagram I did is done to the dimensions of your PinTail board.
Cant tell without a baseline and measurements. Look on page 4. I posted a semi gun rocker that works well. Something about rocker, and is 3/8" important. It depends where the 3/8 difference is. 3/8" difference in entry rockers isn’t that much of a difference. 3/8" in the tail is more critical.
But what is really important is 3/8" difference over what length? 3/8" difference in the overall board isn’t nearly as critical as 3/8" difference in the last 2’ of the tail.
Oh No! NO image, try again.
I was curious so I did this comparison. Is it worth the difference?
Tried to buy masonite this week at 2 hardware chains. Say they don’t stock it in full sheets anymore. Settled for MDF.
Hitting numbers for me took a turn when I realised that I could widen the tip of the board by up to 1/2" without affecting aesthetics. The 1/4" on either side of the stringer really helps when you’re trying to force a curve through points. There’s more play in the tail, especially if you have a rounded pin.
But what do I know. I loft all my curves electronically and cut em on a CNC in my shed.
Add RATIO into the mix and there are no bouneries.