Hey guy’s, I have a question concerning templating. I’ve got some templates given to me by some serious shapers; when I go to template the board, should I follow the template’s outline and hence, wide points, rather than or opposed to going by my own dimensions? For example, say the template is 7’6 x 14 x 21 x 14 1/2, but I want different dimensions. When I go to line the template up it won’t fit my dimensions correctly, do you then template the nose, tail, and wide points seperatetly? Is it better to follow a trusted curve rather than force it to fit my dimensions? How then do you template with your own set of different dimensions and get everything to flow together nicely? Thanks for your help.
Hey guy’s, I have a question concerning templating. I’ve got some > templates given to me by some serious shapers; when I go to template the > board, should I follow the template’s outline and hence, wide points, > rather than or opposed to going by my own dimensions? For example, say the > template is 7’6 x 14 x 21 x 14 1/2, but I want different dimensions. When > I go to line the template up it won’t fit my dimensions correctly, do you > then template the nose, tail, and wide points seperatetly? Is it better to > follow a trusted curve rather than force it to fit my dimensions? How then > do you template with your own set of different dimensions and get > everything to flow together nicely? Thanks for your help. Ryan, templates are only relative to what you want. Think of them as giant french curves, somewhere along that curve is what you want. I usually add 3 dimensions to each station ie: nose, middle, nose. Fixing yourself on one width is too structured and limits the options of how smooth and clean the lines will wind up. When you line a template up with the measurements, you can almost immediately tell if you are on the money. I see “experienced” shapers draw out he most repulsive outlines, with intersecting angles at each measurement. Sliding the template back and forth will allow you to use different curves that will fill in where stock lines didn’t. The real deal is to have a full quiver of templates, ranging from the bloopiest fishes to the raciest rhino chasers, in there will no doubt be the curve you are looking for. Jim Phillips
Ryan, templates are only relative to what you want. Think of them as giant > french curves, somewhere along that curve is what you want. I usually add > 3 dimensions to each station ie: nose, middle, nose. Fixing yourself on > one width is too structured and limits the options of how smooth and clean > the lines will wind up. When you line a template up with the measurements, > you can almost immediately tell if you are on the money. I see > “experienced” shapers draw out he most repulsive outlines, with > intersecting angles at each measurement. Sliding the template back and > forth will allow you to use different curves that will fill in where stock > lines didn’t. The real deal is to have a full quiver of templates, ranging > from the bloopiest fishes to the raciest rhino chasers, in there will no > doubt be the curve you are looking for. Jim Phillips Hey Jim, So essentially your using three different curves for the nose width and tail. Your using different curves of different templates (or the same template) to , lets say, first draw the nose curve; from the tip to the 12" mark. Then readjust the template to fit that curve into the middle point of the board, followed by the same to the 12" tail mark, and to the tail? So if I come up with my own dimensions, best to find the curves I’m looking for and blend those together? Even if the actual template is for something different? Then how do you get the same curve on the opposite side of the board; I’d assume by marking the width points on the template and transferring them to the other side? Hey, thanks Jim for the help and anyone else with info.
Ryan, when you line your template up with the tip, 1’ mark and center, you can instantly see if the lines are paralleling the edges of the blank. If they run at acute angles, the board will have a very anglular outline. Running the templates to the 1’ mark and then to center is one way of being sure the outline will be disjointed looking. The best looking outlines always connect together as many points as possible in one shot. If you find a curve that you like, mark it on the temp., then draw it on the opposite side. I like to use a white out pen and draw the marks on my temps. in a nice white line (most temps. are out of dark brown masonite) To clean up the outline after sawing it out, I use my planer set on nothing and walk fairly rapidly from nose to tail. Even the best looking plan shapes can have little flaws that the planer will ignore, hit the high spots and pass by the lows. The machine is your best friend, learn to use it to the maximum. I don’t use surforms at all to turn rails and clean up the last inches of the outline only with them.