And for those of us who’s Dad’s didn’t surf a little story … He could never understand what it was all about until he picked me up from surfing one day. I saw the car from the line up and caught a last wave in, getting (I swear), barreled in the process. When I went up to the car I saw it in his eyes… He understood from that day on … RIP Dad, I’ll miss you …
Mine never surfed neither did he really understand my passion for surfing (and shaping) but he just did all he could so that I could do it. Thanks, Dad, wherever you are, now you KNOW.
An Airborne Vet. We spent as much time in and on the water also in the field as we could. Better at hunting than fishing, captaining a boat than surfing and drinking a beer than going to church, Is always welcome with me in the line-up or anywhere else. His teaching me respect and responsibility for nature and duty has proven very lasting.
My brother and I have been surfing for 28 years and dad always supported it while we were growing up. No matter how much we encouraged him to give it a try he always said no, that was until he me Ambrose in Kauai last year… he got on a board the next day.
My dad taught me how to surf when I was 10(1981) at La Jolla Shores. I was hooked from Day 1 and have never looked back. He died young(47), and I miss surfing with him very much. Thanks Dad. I miss you.
My dad never surfed but always made stuff (he was an engineer). for sure that part he passed on to me. He also encouraged us in whatever we wanted to do, without pushing his own agenda ( well, he did make me play- try- all the traditional ball games- basketball, football, baseball, but I guess . Back in the early 70’s surfing definitely had a counter culture edge to it and wasn’t really what a straight laced Dad would want his son doing, but he never questioned it. Thanks Dad. RIP.
yeah, my old man pushed me into my first wave. I was about 7. He used to surf until health issues got in the way.
He showed me how he mad all the boards out of wood, I still have them in photos and the few that were under his house that were made of wood are literally turning to dust.
His father surfed too, and also built his own boards. I should find out if my Dad can recall if my grandfather pushed
I pushed my two boys into waves when they were about 3. Now 18 years later, they are both far better surfers than I ever was. My oldest builds his own boards, has his own repair business, and paid his own way thru college. My youngest, well surfing has been as much of a regular part of his daily life as eating and sleeping for his whole life thus far. Never had any real problems with either of them. Not a bad return for just pushing them into a couple of waves.
I’ve restored the original board that this started on, and they will use it to push their kids into a couple of waves. I hope I’m still around to see what happens.
my dad was into surfing as a teenager in Palos Verdes back in the late sixties…he then “got more interested in girls.” Started surfing again at 40years old and taught me at the same time. I talked to him yesterday…
“what did you do today?”
“oh i took my girlfriends little cousins surfing at a slabby left in La Jolla.”
“Oh like when i used to surf outta my league with you and your friends when you were young?”
My dad taught me to surf at Santa Monica’s Bay Street when I was 9. He then thought that I was ready for the more formidable waves of Zuma Beach in the summer. After two years of this shore pounding abuse, he took me to Malibu in Sept of 1962. I was so stoked. When I asked him why we had never gone to Malibu before, he said that I had to pay my dues first before being able to appreciate a great wave like Malibu. I have been surfing there ever since.My 81 year old dad still comes up from Santa Monica, on occasion, to watch his 57 year old son surf.
Howzit balsa, My dad was a bodysurfer but hated surfing and the fact that I was into it. He never gave me any encouragement or positive energy. I had to save to buy all my boards and couldn’t even talk my dad into driving me to the beach. When he was on his deathbed he told me the reason was because he loved the tropics when stationed there during WW2 and he was actually jealous of the fact that I had taken on the surfer lifestyle where as he came home and supported his family after the war. He also told me he was sorry for not encouraging me and was proud that I followed my own dream.Aloha,Kokua
My Dad said he tried surfing once back in the old wood board days. His uncle was a beach boy with Chick Daniels and the crew at Waikiki. He said the old timers would run you over so he only did it once.
He did love bodysurfing and everything about the ocean. I think the first wave I caught was in a 14’ Sears aluminum boat. Dad was rowing it and my brother and sister were in the boat. Dad never rode a surfboard, but he caught a lot of waves with boats and canoes. He got us hooked on the beach lifestyle back in the mid 60’s.
Well where do I start, My dad didn’t surf at all. But he taught me how to live , love and enjoy. There are a lot of subjects that go under each title. could drave on for hours and it always ends in tears .