ABOUT THE FOLDED SANDPAPER TIP IT WORKS GREAT FOR QUICK REMOVAL OF RAIL TOP FOAM. NOW I’M DOING A 3 STRINGER (REDWOOD QUARTER INCHERS) AND DEALING WITH THE WOOD ENDS TOWARDS THE FINISH IS ALWAYS A BIT@H!!! DON’T WANT A BUMP AT THOSE WOOD ENDS, ANY SUGGESTIONS SO I DONT HAVE TO SUFFER THE WRATH(HUMILIATION) OF THE LAMINATOR AND SANDER AGAIN? i CANT IMAGINE BEING A SIXTYS SHAPER AND HAVING MULTIBLE THREE STRINGER SHAPES EVERYDAY!
ABOUT THE FOLDED SANDPAPER TIP IT WORKS GREAT FOR QUICK REMOVAL OF RAIL > TOP FOAM. NOW I’M DOING A 3 STRINGER (REDWOOD QUARTER INCHERS) AND DEALING > WITH THE WOOD ENDS TOWARDS THE FINISH IS ALWAYS A BIT@H!!! DON’T WANT A > BUMP AT THOSE WOOD ENDS, ANY SUGGESTIONS SO I DONT HAVE TO SUFFER THE > WRATH(HUMILIATION) OF THE LAMINATOR AND SANDER AGAIN? i CANT IMAGINE BEING > A SIXTYS SHAPER AND HAVING MULTIBLE THREE STRINGER SHAPES EVERYDAY! The best thing you can learn about turning rails is to leave the rail unfinished til the very last second. If the original plan shape is left undisturbed, the final process is to remove the last bit of flat spot. When I come to the offset stringer, I discontinue wrapping my screen or sandpaper around it and leave the last of the plan shape ontouched. This part of the rail is so thin that any pressure on it will take off plenty of foam. The central section of the rail is so much larger and flatter that it reduces the ability of the sand paper to take off much material. When all is said and done, I have a small curved sanding block that only makes contact with the nub of stringer that is exposed, reducing the potential to hit the foam around it. In the sixties nearly every board had offsets and a tailblock. I got $8 for the shape and $2 for the tailblock! ( I have paid my dues )