I’ve had this neurotic conversation w/ my imaginary friends for a few years now … thanks
thanks for the paddle out
the drop
the stinky zodiac with the video camerai in the line-up
…going away…
the next sets before it blew out
the fresh cool winds texturing the water
the crowd going in at the good spot down the line
the long paddle kick over rewarded by the wipe-ouot
the body surf explosion and projectile launch skyward
relanding continued glide and sky launch then glide
had to pull out to catch a breath
as I wasn't poping out ahead of the white to breathe
the day of thanks giving
what a concept.
thanks to all who sit arround this blue campfire
may your wipe outs renew your outlook
and appreciation.
aloha from waipouli
...ambrose...
mat riding is …
give thanks…
the Oc [Occy] gives thanks …
[photo Bruce Channon , used without permission]
oh yea
the day the american indians
encouraged the pilgrims to eat turkey
{ground Vulture]
a civilization based on the turkey conciousness
alas the burden.
…ambrose…
"a civilization based on the turkey consciousness "
Well, that’s worth giving thanks for
