I still can’t get it below the foam! The deck side is fine, the underside is where it’s raised a bit, mostly noticeable in the nose rocker. I’ve even tried grinding the corners off the block plane’s blade to where I only have a blade that’s just a hair wider than the stringer, and I still irritate the foam a bit. Haven’t tried a spokeshave or the baby block yet because I thought the grinded block plane would work. What’s wrong? Should I just narrow the block plane’s blade more?
I still can’t get it below the foam! The deck side is fine, the underside > is where it’s raised a bit, mostly noticeable in the nose rocker. I’ve > even tried grinding the corners off the block plane’s blade to where I > only have a blade that’s just a hair wider than the stringer, and I still > irritate the foam a bit. Haven’t tried a spokeshave or the baby block yet > because I thought the grinded block plane would work. What’s wrong? Should > I just narrow the block plane’s blade more? Are you shaping ployurethane(clark)? I have the gretest friken plane for this…no blades the widthe of the stringer. Just shaves it even with the foam!!!..Excellent tool. Would share it with you but you have to share rail band guide line tool… Deeb, where do you live? Me, San Diego, I can set you up with a nice finishing plane for the stringer. The curved japanese plane is dog sh_t compared to the one I have
A sharp,correctly seated blade is key to clean stringers,Herb.
You’re having problems with the bottom nose rocker because the of the grain of the stringer. You’re planing straight with the grain when you’re planing the flatter rocker parts of the board. At the nose, you’re planing the grain on less of a desireable angle, so it’s harder to cut. Try using an X-acto plastic plane. It’s about 2 inches long an about 2 inches wide and it has a blade almost like a razor. Best small plane I’ve ever had! Try to get one at a hobby shop. aloha
Are you shaping ployurethane(clark)?.. Yes. Would > share it with you but you have to share rail band guide line tool…OK>>> Deeb, where do you live? Me, San Diego, I can set you up with a nice > finishing plane for the stringer. Thanks, I live in South Bay LA. Will you be up here anytime soon?
A sharp,correctly seated blade is key to clean stringers,Herb. herbs right. all those wild tools won’t help you. just make sure your blade is sharp and adjusted. if its to deep it will scar. pay attention to how it’s cutting and make minor adjustments as you go. i sharpen my blade just before the clean up stage on every board. improve your tool use instead of trying to find new tools! keep it sharp, gene
improve your tool use > instead of trying to find new tools! keep it sharp, gene Thanks all. As the saying goes, practice makes perfect, right? As usual, my human nature seeks an alternative to diligence…deeb. By the way, if you’re out there, HEY KIRK…do you work at Just Longboards? Just a guess…
nope, not me. but while i’m here, can i just say that i love my spokeshave! kirk
herbs right. all those wild tools won’t help you. just make sure your > blade is sharp and adjusted. if its to deep it will scar. pay attention to > how it’s cutting and make minor adjustments as you go. i sharpen my blade > just before the clean up stage on every board. improve your tool use > instead of trying to find new tools! keep it sharp, gene what do you use to sharpen your blade? thanks ryan y
what do you use to sharpen your blade? thanks ryan y Herb does know his stuff, but you do have to be able to get into the nose rocker area on the deck…and yes, with a sharp blade. If you use it right you don’t have to sharpen in every board. Could you imagine a production shaper spending five minutes to sharpen a blade? Spoke shaves don’t work well. Hobby planes are the best bet for finish planing.