The Beginning of a Biscuit

General Discussion
1

Well finally my process has begun. I just cutout the template today and am really excited to really start. Dimensions are 5’6"x20" 2 3/4". I know it doesnt sound like a big deal but it took me all day to do this. ( I know, must be really computer-stupid). Anyway, I will be putting this on masonite or something soon. For those who are just starting out and wondering how I did this:

  1. Download AKU shaper and create a template.

  2. Download PrimoPDF

  3. In Aku Shaper go to File, Print, Full Size Outline.

  4. Choose printer: PrimoPDF

  5. Use PrimoPDF to create a PDF file of your board

  6. Print off computer and tape together (Be sure to take “scaling” off so board becomes full-size, I forgot to do this the first time around and came out as a 5’4" instead)

There were some minor complications when I did this, the biggest being for some reason the template came out as a 5’5 1/2" instead of 5’6". I dont think this is a big deal but I could be wrong. Thoughts? Anyway here is a picture of the template printed and cut. I have a long way to go, thanks to everyone on swaylocks for helping me get this done.

2

nice job. i’ve had the same issues with AKU – seems like it always comes out 1/2in short for me as well. i’ve changed the settings to “scaling: none”.

if anyone has any tips much appreciated.

as for templating… if you are looking to go the cheap and easy route grab some roofing felt at your local HD or Lowes. With one roll you can cut dozens of outlines with a utility knife quick at easy. tip from surfersteve.

3

ok thanks alot, hopefully I can pick some of that up tommorow

4

I think it has to do with the “over curve” curve eating some length–you can set the “scale” to be either with curve or not

5

that sounds good, yet my over over-curve was 5’6 1/2…oh well, I will continue to update as I progress on my board

6

…is 1/2 less because the final rocker…hence the final measure

so if you want to shape a 6 1 to say something, and if you use a 6 1 template (straight measurement) then you finish with a 6 1 1/2…

7

ok so I have made a little bit of progress finally: First, I transfered my paper template on to some roofing felt. I recommend this to any shaper because you can cut it easily and line-up the template on the roofing felt. (has lines on felt on which you can line your template up). Next, I am about 95 percent done with my shpaing racks, I just have to level the racks out and screw them down, and then put blankets or something on the inside.

Here are some pictures.

8

I am going to cut the blank within a day or two. I just have a question, does the template have to be "perfect, as in no small bumps etc.? Its good except for one area that has minor bumps. I am going to cut 1/8 around the outline so i dont think this is a factor since i will gring it down. Thanks for the help.

9

…the important stuff is to have a smooth curve overall

dont worry for those little bumps if you got that curve

because everything will be trueing up with the planer

10

yes and no it should look like the shape your going for but don’t worry if its got a bump thats under about a 1/2 cm just take long strokes with the surform to get the outline smoothed out

the template looks great, it looks a lot like the board i shaped to day for small waves

great minds think a like

i’ll try that roofing felt idea it looks a lot easier than just tracing the paper on the blank

good luck

  • logan
11

ok guys thanks for the help, and logan, thanks for the compliment and the roofing felt is great since it has lines on it but it tears easy if its pulled horizontally and is not as tough as masonite or whatever but for temporary use or something that is not used a lot it should be fine

12

ok i am stumped on the rocker placement: I have a 62 A US Blanks fish blank and dont know where to start the outline. Obviously its personal preference but how much rocker in the nose tail should a board 5’6’ by 20 by 2 3/4 generally have for small waves?

13

From what Ive noticed

small and small fish boards are pretty flat in the tail and not much nose rocker

I would use the eye method,

look at the side of the blank and see where it looks best could be towards the tail or maybe in the middle of the blank

maybe skin it first

Ive done some 6 ft’rs using a 6.9R justfoam blank

layed them out close to the tail

14

ok thanks alot, as for skinning it, is there a certain pattern for skinning the blank should there be a certain depth i set my hand plane to and if so how do i do that (instructions on box in japanese)

15

s10

the planer depth adjustment is usualy the front handle / knob, turn it to change depth

as far as skinning it start with shallow depth and go lengthwise slowly

I usualy do the stringer and work to rails

when you make a pass you have to do the whole side

It will look scetchy when done just go over it with a sand block to clean it up

16

thanks alot for the help, I couldnt do it right without you guys

17

Just finished roughly cutting my blank. Since it was my first time, I decided not to risk cutting “in” to the bottom of the blank and didn’t really do a 90 degree angle. Oh well, looks like a lot of sanding ahead of me. Anyway, here are some pictures, and what do you suggest my next step be, “sanding to get the right curve” or skinning?

Thanks alot for the help, sorry for the dark pictures.

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18

take your surform and clean it up 360 degrees (bring it in to your outline), then skin it. Otherwise you’ll skin your template lines off and “could” end up w/ an asymmetrical board or one with funky lines.

19

ok thanks alot

20

After a couple hours of surforming I am ready to make some long passes with a sanding block to complete my outline. Shaping this board has been a really great experience. For anybody out there that is thinking about shaping a board but thinks it is too difficult, its not! Just take your time and things will come out a lot better than you expect.Here are some pictures of todays work.