the dream

Reminds me of a dream I had when I was 14. We were about to move to this small village on the east coast of South Africa. Warm water and full of point breaks is what was weighting for me. 2 nights before we left I had this dream of the perfect left breaking in front of my house. The next morning after we had arrived I went to my folks room to check out the surf. I saw this wave breaking between the river mouth and the rocks. It looked OK from the side. I grabbed my board and paddled out. It was the most perfect left I had ever seen. It was the perfect speed and sometimes the wave would actually peak to the right of the sandbank and the wave would get bigger as you were going down the line. It was amazing how much swell managed to hit this place when most others were small or flat. I tried to persuade some of the local lads to surf it with me but they did not bother saying it was too small and that there was no wave there. As a result I surfed it my entire summer holiday by myself and took my backhand to the next level. Since then I have never seen that spot break again.