The blades are in a “holder”. After removing the three large bolts, the holder/blade assy is
rotated out of place (lifting the sharp edge away from the aluminum rotor that the bolts
screwed into). NOTE, the positioning of the little spring tabs at the “hinge” edge, opposite
the sharp edge. Practice putting it back in before lifting it out all the way… …those tiny
spring tabs make the assembly seat against the edge of the rotor.
The entire assembly should lift out. To adjust the blade within its holder you will need to
loosen two phillips head screws on the assembly. You should have a jig that comes with
the planer. Place the holder/blade into the jig, much like “hinging” it into the rotor, “hinge”
it into the jig. The blade should slide up against the plastic stops of the jig at its sharp
SOMETIMES the jig is out of whack. There are two adjustment screws to get your jig
just right. If your planer continues to cut deeper on one side, then I would suspect the
jig is off. You can correct the jig but it would be opening a whole can of worms.
With that said, a trick thing to do is adjust the jig for a more aggressive cut. The plastic
stops can be moved in or out. You can back out the adjustment screws of the plastic stops
(equally) if your cuts are already level. You might be able to back them out as much as
Ideal max cut depth will run about 3/16th’s but I’ve seen as much as 1/4 inch on some
maniac’s planers. Remember, if you go deep, you lose at your “shallow” end, that is,
if you adjust for 1/4 inch, your “zero cut” will not be zero, but 1/32 or 1/16 or ?