"The Jensen Javelin.....Lighter by Design...Built to Fly..."

May of ’05…

In the far North, in the rain. on a private island off of the West Coast of Vancouver Island…

A 45’ old growth Sitka Spruce log is first cut in the process of creating two 6”x16” beams for boat ramp repairs…

Each pass takes a half hour…

These trees are special, not sacrificed just ‘cause it’s easy…

They’re taken out of need…Dan needed some 43’ers…

That’s not something you can just order at a lumberyard, even if there was one…

Boat or floatplane access only…

In the thirty or so years he’s lived there it’s one of the few trees he’s taken down…

I was able to salvage an off-cut from this milling process and bring it home for use in a hollow surfboard…

Good resource management…

The frame is now done…

The stinger is clear Cedar with a couple Basswood reinforcements sandwiched to the outside…

The cross ribs are simply 1/8” plywood…

I added some balsa reinforcements on the cross ribs on the deck side and along the inner rails…

The balsa will help spread out the deck load with a minimal weight increase…

Note there are no balsa reinforcements on the bottom ribs…

The frame weights only 2.5#…!!!..

On this board, I’m trying to retain strength, yet have this board be lighter than previous ones I’ve made in this size range…

A board for travel and hiking in with…

The bottom deck skin is laminated with epoxy resin and 0.5 oz. fiberglass…

Not a misprint, 0.5oz…

Like woven spider webs…Hard to work with…

The slightest breeze had it all over the place…

My theory on doing the deck and bottoms this way is that the epoxy resin seeps between the 1/8” wood strips and unifies them as one…

The cloth merely holds it all together, better…

These woods, Sitka Spruce, Yellow and Red Cedars are some of the highest strength to weight woods available…

Thin and strong…

All done…

The glassing schedule: a single later of 3.5oz s-cloth top and bottom…

HVLP sprayed “Imron” gloss…

The top is fully domed with a slight s-deck…

The bottom has a fairly straight rocker (N-3” T-1.25”), but it’s loosened up with continuous belly…

The forward rails are turned up and pinched, the middle is 80/20, going to very knifey at the rear 1/3…

Logo printed at Office Depot, $0.04 each…

The leash attachment is through the finbox …

A glassed in brass utility tarp grommet finishes the hole…

1/8” solid glass nose and tailback extensions…

Cedars, Spruce, Balsa and Cork…

The back of the finbox is 12” from the tail…

Final weight: 16#…

My 11’6” with a similar template weights close to 37#…

A significant weight reduction, eh…???..

This project was very special for me…

I daydreamed when Dan and I were slicing those beams that rainy afternoon, that somehow, someway, I’d find a way to get some of that wood into one of my boards…

Little did I expect that all of the deck and bottom wood would come from trees from the Island…

I’m definitely connected to this board…

Paul

That is an amazing board. The effort that goes into a work of art like that blows me away. congrats.

Beautiful work, as usual.

I’m curious how the weight breaks down into rails, skins, and frame. Did you do the intermediate weights?

16 pounds is impressive. Love to see a ride report after you get it christened.

that’s a beauty Paul.

So… when are you going to build a wood framed seaplane with pontoons that come off for surfing use???

Amazing Paul!

I surfed your website not four hours ago and saw these pics there. Immediately got some new ideas I might copy/maybe refine… Ofcourse cannot access that sitka spruce but, hey I might go one better: use nordic pine :wink: !

Anyhows… Beautiful work- as usual. The low weight is … well astounding! I guess I’m going to have to move closer to the ocean, so that I can do more “R n D”. One board per year is a bit slow… and moving more than one board per vacation trip is going to be plenty expensive. Right now Its going to cost me about 100 eunuchs (euros) to get this one board near an ocean (with more or less warm water AND waves…) !!!..

I’m still trying to go “non fiber glass” though…

Nice job Paul. Yeah, being part of the process from cutting up the tree to final product… Connected for sure!!

Quote:

I’m curious how the weight breaks down into rails, skins, and frame. Did you do the intermediate weights?

The basic frame - 2.5#

Frame with top and bottom skins (inc. finbox) - 10#

Rails on (unshaped) -15#

Rails shaped - 12#

Glassed (ready to ride) - 16#

Quote:
Nice job Paul. Yeah, being part of the process from cutting up the tree to final product... Connected for sure!!
You know it..



That board is a work of art, seems almost too good to take into the water and surf!

A real BEAUTY!

Brilliant work as usual. Thanks for posting the weight breakdown, sheds a bit more light into the process for those of us who haven’t finished an hws yet. Did you go with 1/8 thick skins? Great connection with the board. It really means a lot to be a part of the process from start to finish, and use materials that might otherwise have been cast away.

Pat

Incredible board, Paul. Every now and then the “do surfboards have soul?” question pops up. That board has soul and lots of it. Mike

ah magoo, you’ve done it again!!! beauty!!

Nice…real smooth lines. Looks like nothing there that water wouldn’t love to move across.

Again proving nobody is above evolution. (Not saying that its a step ahead, per se, just a difference.) Love the swap out of ply for balsa. Much more organic… the ply rails always seemed just a touch sterile, to be perfectly honest…

Hope you don’t take that wrong. The craftsmanship, as always, is well above anything I or most anyone else could do… :slight_smile:

pretty , for sure !

how does it ride ?

ben

Art! That’s a beautiful board. What kind of waves is it intended for? I ask because it has a plan shape of a big wave gun but not very much rocker. Is the lack of rocker a design consideration given the technique? Could you get 6" of flip in the nose if you wanted? Just curious.

I worked for a couple of years for a custom furniture maker. A couple of his works were purchased by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA). He always talked about “museum quality.” Your work definitely looks like museum quality.

Hey Paul,

IMHO in every way this one is your best yet!

Mahalo, Rich

Thats real nice. Did you kiln dry the wood? I always thought kiln drying was unnecessary, but somebody mentioned real dry wood (4% moisture content?) will suck up epoxy better. Kiln dry will suck up water too, so maybe it will swell to make the board more watertight. Am I nuts to think that garage dried wood (6%?) would be just fine for a surfboard, even for a museum quality piece?

great board!