I havent surfed in almost 3 weeks now… I needed some “ocean stoke” (thats what Ill call it haha) and that video has provided it. Thanks. My favorite part is definitely Reno at sunset (a safe guess I think?).
I’m saving part II for tomorrow… I might need it as a break from the holiday madness
Hey Durbs- the waves were tiny but perfect yesterday. Really, knee and perfect, offshore, you could zip along with you head in the curl for a long time. Today was much bigger and blown, but you could get a good bash in here and there. Just get out there!
Im moved out of LA otherwise I would have definitely been out there groveling with Tyler. Up in Goleta there hasn’t been any swell hitting and too much weather, unsurfable every time I have checked it. Im hoping a few of the sheltered spots around here will be surfable later this week when the more westerly swell hits… we’ll see
I was going to start a new thread about Derek Hynd sightings riding his finless boards as I recall the clip Janklow posted of him at J Bay on this thread.
Was out at Ti Tree (Noosa) yesterday enjoying 3-4’ great waves and as I paddling out there’s a longish haired guy swooping along in a low crouched stance across a wave, then he pulls an effortless 360 which immediately got my attention.
I’d seen that before. I’ll be buggered it’s Hynd on a finless.
Saw him get a couple like that as I was paddling back out. Very cool to watch.
He inspired others riding finned boards to try 360’s with mixed success on their part. I doubt that they even realised his board had no fins.
Failed miserably to get a good look at his board in the hustle and bustle that entails when Ti Tree’s good but breaking wider than usual. He was sitting a lot further on the inside and I was riding my 8’er so wasn’t keen to be run over by the hordes in order to make contact.
There was someone filming from the beach. Maybe some footage will appear one day.