The SINGLE Keel board ...Wayne Lynch , Pat Morgan , and .... the Joey Cabell influence ....

[fins]

watching the extras in the ‘Uncharted Waters’ dvd , I was** very **interested in the photos , footage and comments of Wayne Lynch , regarding the influence of joey cabell at hanalei [?sp?] in the early 1970s , and the **SINGLE keel  **boards , that Joey rode there …

 

did anyone here ever see Joey Cabell riding them ?

 

… is there any footage around of him riding one[s] at hanalei bay , for example ??

 

  and , have  [m]any here on 'Swaylock’s ,  ever  ridden them ?

 

  Wayne said in his comments that , after watching how fast joey was travelling , and 'making waves no one else was making ’ , that he went home [vicco] , and worked with pat morgan , on a 7’6 yellow one , some piccies of which I include …

 

 

[p.s. - nat young is also featured riding a horrible looking oversized one , in George Greenough’s movie ‘Crystal Voyager’ [? c. 1971/ '72 ?]

[fins]

[SammyA]

Funny. We had a power outage last night due to a car hitting a utility pole. So I looked on my laptop to see if I had a movie I could watch. Had to kill time in the dark.  I watched Crystal Voyager and noticed the keel fin board that Nat was riding. Meant to do a screen shot to share here. Might go back and grab one.

[SammyA]

By the way, you can watch the entire film (Crystal Voyager) on youtube. That’s where I downloaded my copy from

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPyu55vsGfE

[fins]

wayne surfs his smaller keeled , wider board version [compared to nat’s missile] SO well in the ‘uncharted waters’ footage …, compared to how nat struggled on that reef break featured in crystal voyager !  To me , Nat’s keel looked waaaay too long , and deep … as did the board , for the waves he was riding . In that footage , Richie West ,  riding the much nicer template and waaay more manouevrable ‘stubbie’ single fin [?"Wilderness board ?] surfed rings around both him **and **George , I gotta say.

 

Mind you , that having been said  [yped] …

 

… In the ’ Uncharted Waters’  footage , Wayne WAS riding them in the type of waves that  Pat Morgan designed them for … I imagine that it was the same good deal with Joey surfing his , at hanalei bay too, eh ?!

[sharkcountry]

Ben, Bernie made a long keel fin in the '70s and rode it in this board for many years. He’s posted shots of that fin on this board here somewhere. This board was custom made by Harold Iggy in the pre-leash days. It has a glue on leash plug.

[fins]

thanks very much for that  , Harry !

 

I thought that Bernie had one , at one stage , yes … does he still HAVE it ??

 

… if not , would he make another one ? 

 

Wayne Lynch had nothing but good things to say about how HIS went in big hollow surf . ( I kinda wish he had ridden one in the unreal  lefts in the desert that he and maurice cole surfed in the epic  hoole/ mccoy movie ‘storm riders’ … but that was filmed in 1979 though to 1981 , of course )

 

yep , that outline pictured looks like the gunny boards Pat made , too…made to surf big hollow vic and indo waves , was his and wayne’s comment . Pat lives in queensland , has for quite a few years , according to a swaylocks guy  from his former vic stomping grounds [wayne lynch territory]

[fins]

 

 from the  good ol’ Aussie  website  ‘surfresearch’ catalogue …

 

  check** THIS **out !!

 

http://www.surfresearch.com.au/00000336.html

 

**17 1/2" wide … **in **1971 **, eh  ? … I N T E R E S T I N G !!   ( I wonder if Barry K. had any influence there , maybe ?! )

 Wayne said , in the ‘extras’ section  in the 'uncharted waters ’ movie , that he and Darrick Doerner spent large amounts of time in Hawaii , surfing biiiig ‘out of the way’ spots  , and sought out  Laniakea [?sp?] , ‘perfecting’  their skills , away from the spotlight.

In fact , there’s a really funny story that Darrick tells , of a huuuuge day that he and Wayne paddled out in !

[sharkcountry]

Hey Ben, I bet Bernie still has the fin somewhere. I could never get used to it, but that board was a pipeline gun anyway, very stiff. Back in the '70s Bernie liked his board really stiff. Here’s another board he rode well.

[fins]

… cheers Harry !

 

  who shaped that ??

 

 how long and wide is it ?

 

  do you have a shot of the BOTTOM  , and the fin , too ,  please , Harry ??

 

[ you KNEW I was going to ask that , hey , mate ?]

 

 I hope your and bernie’s recoveries are coming along " swimmingly " , guys ?

 

…it’s always a PLEASURE to hear from you , both … and , see your latest ‘shenanigans’ , too !! 

[sharkcountry]

Hey Ben, that was shaped by one of Bernie’s classmates. He lived down by the beach, and was one of the first of our age to make boards for others. He called them Hallelujah Sun Boards. That was 6’8", but I don’t know how wide. Probably about 19" or 19.5" The white board was 7’6"

That was actually a custom for Bernie’s classmate. He used to come down and stay with us on the weekends and Bernie rode that board several times at Shark Country on better days. He really surfed well with that one, so one day years later I bought it from his little brother who was my classmate. I rode that board on a day when the North Shore goes from head high to triple overhead plus in just a couple of hours or less. Just me and a close friend out in waves that were jacking up to 20’+. I almost drowned that day. I had a swim that lasted about 40 minutes, just kept getting sucked back out in the rip before I could get to the beach. The board ended up on the rocks and the deck had a nasty ding. I left it under my dad’s mango tree for many years without fixing it, a reminder of that day. Either Bernie or my dad gave it to our neighbor.

[fins]

wow

 

  sounds like wayne and darrick doerners lani day in the dvd

 

  classic !

 

[except for the near drowning]

[fins]

Cheers Harry !

 

It ‘might’  be interesting [? or , not ?  haaa ! ]  to  ’ dig up ’ [ ? literally ? ] that board ,  glass Bernie’s keel fin onto it , and film him riding it ? … when he and you make a triumph return to surfing , soon …

 

  ‘hallelujah sun  boards’  … haha … that’s EPIC ,  mate !

 

I’ m guessing …  that musta been made in the midst of  the  " i’m a jesus freak " / anti vietnam era , hey ?

 

 :)

 cheers  !

 

… and , keep up the good work !

 

  ben

[sharkcountry]

Ben, the guy who made those boards is a very strong christian. I think he may be an associate pastor these days. He lives in Bremerton, Washington now. The guy who did the glassing was a black guy. He was one of the first black guys surfing in Ewa Beach, I think his name was Scoopy. The shaper’s nick name was Gooney, he was a very good surfer.

We were lucky where we lived because one of the homeboys, named Chris Gardner worked for Lightning Bolt when it first started. He taught several guys how to make boards, and a couple used to glass for LB. There were about 3 guys who were very good surfboard builders in our little community, one of them is still sought after after 40 plus years.

[fins]

cool

 

  scoopy and goony eh ?

 

 yep  , I remember seeing shots of chris gardner in surfing mags in the 70s and 80s

[oneula]

Ben

those boardhs w ire actually the precurser to what Tom and Derek are finding out with their finless designs and alaias.

the fins were short like maybe 4" max but 17"-24" long.

when you think about combining that design with those hyper pintails we were riding back then you can understand why they would work and why they were so fast. Basically you were carving off the rail outline of the tail of your board with the keel providing you just enough stability  from sliding out. The combination of the base and the sharply pulled in pintails gave you so much drive off the bottom turn you were just flying and the low profile of the fin lessened the resistance as you went down the line.

by pumping the board/fin you could generate tons of down the line speed and the deep pin and depth of the keel would prevent spinouts when you cut back which where a big problem back in those days with wider tailed boards. the keel also allowed you to draw out your turn more at full speed versus pivot which was what those straight brewer fins allowed you to do. the super pintail actually acted like a fin if you can imagine that.

BTW I wasn’t such a big fan of Lynch since i was a regular foot and back then we thought goofy foots were you know, just goofy…

But Joey Cabell, Paul Strauch, BK, and Terry F were my hero’s and the kind of surfing I developed my surfing around.

Funny some 40 years later, and I’m still pursuing that same feeling I got off that board with my Gemini’s, Griffin 5 fins and channel bottom modern boards.

one of the best sessions of of my prime years in the early 70’s was riding that setup at 4-6’ barreling whiteplains on a heavy west wrap with half a dozens guys out including Alan Panteleon. Alan was doing his alan wrench in the tube with his leg touching the top of the barrel and no one wanted to drop in me flying down the line with my keeled Harold Iggy pin tail.

memories  

 

[SammyA]

I watched a bit of Crystal Voyager again, today. Did anyone else notice that Nat’s board has what looks like a logo with three hexagons on it? Hmmmm?

[fins]

yep , 1971 … THAT ,  would be the pat morgan logo , sammy [they are circles …as evidenced in the link from surfresearch , that I posted on this thread … ]

…here it is again , if you missed it the first time around …

http://www.surfresearch.com.au/00000336.html

 

bernie , thanks HEAPS for that feedback !!

 

  wayne lynch said in the extras in the dvd that he " had more speed and learnt more about drive , and water flow up the face in big waves on the single keel than on any other board [ he has ever ] ridden. "

 

so … my question still remains …

 

"  is anyone making and riding [modernised] versions of these ,  in big waves today  ?  "  [ and … if not …  WHY not !!! …some old designs are DEFINATELYworth re-exploring ! …especially when they apparently work[ed]  very well ?! ]

 

 

I am a bit infatuated with it   [ you may have noticed , over my chipfish61 and chippy61 years ,  here ?] …because…

 

…  [? at least 4 ?] years ago ,  a sways guy named ‘zosurf’ , very kindly sent me a finboxed [rounded ] SINGLE KEEL , simlar to what clubbies ride here in their ‘rescue’ boards , nowadays . And I rode it to death in my 7’ pintail , and also the 9’4 cooloola mal , that I used to have , in my west oz days. I still have the single keel , luckily …

 

I still have the fin . All my surfboards have long since gone , when I moved 2000 miles east to here , a year ago .

[tombstone]

Hey chip you ever read Mike Doyles book Morning Glass, tells about surfing huge hana bay with Cabell, 25 ft. Kept breaking boards and going home getting another coz he was sure he would never see another day like it…          Like you I was fascinated by the keel and the talk of the super narrow rocket ships made around 1971 by Pat Morgan and others. But I never saw the real deal until last summer on the Gold Coast were there was one that was 16 1/2 " wide keel of Wayne’s on display about 6’10" I think. That was a freak out.

[zackoopman]

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