Going off here today!!
blown out 1 meter, and crowded…go figure
Swamis?
Well Cardiff Reef was going off too huge waves every where in San Diego
Does anybody have video of today? It was crazy and its goning to be like that tomorrow can’t wait.
Sean
Surf at Swami’s changed from slightly smaller than yesterday around 5AM to near maximum in just a couple of hours. Many sets rated at about 15’ faces, but one wave of a 3 wave set that showed up between about 8:00 and 8:30AM had (by general agreement) about a 20’ face (many saying that it was the largest wave that they had ever seen here). Screaming/hooting crowd in the parking lot as the set became evident offshore–but allegedly not a single surfer made it over the set. Also huge number of spectators; no parking spaces to be found for many blocks away from Swamis.
Local TV reports that the Encinitas lifeguards made a large number of rescues (unfortunately, I forgot the number, but I seem to remember something like 70). They also reported 25 broken boards (reports of 15 on the above mentioned set alone) and about 50 broken leashes. Following the super set, lifeguard jetski/sleds were bringing in surfers to the beach two at a time. One of the lifeguard jetskis did a backwards endo trying to punch through a breaking set wave (not the super set). Fortunately it ended up right side up, still working, and the rider OK (although with the sled folded over onto the top of the ski).
Shape was not ideal with many close out sections, but there were some good to spectacular rides to be had, including some incredible barrel rides from guys with huge huevos (some successful, more not). A few extra long rides from the backdoor side of Swamis to Dabers(sp?)–while others, less fortunate, involuntarily took the Dabers tour attempting to paddle out.
Taken by my 10 year old son Jimmy today around 11:00. Somewhere between Simmons and The Cove right after the SD Lifeguards pulled 4 bodysurfers out of the water. Hard to tell by the picture but my guess is that this one was about 15-20’ on the face. Only way to scale this is the speck in the lower left hand corner that is bodysurfer #5 that got plucked out of the water about 5 min later. He got cleaned up pretty hard by this one. Top to bottom every other wave and pretty clean relative to the rest of La Jolla. No boardriders. Cove was a barely breaking mushburger, at least when I was on it earlier.
Was that picture of Blacks Beach?That looks to be around 20’ +.
*There were 15’ sets at sucks out/Cardiff reef around 3. I wish I had the balls/board/skill to ride those. I saw a lot of people shreding and a lot of people gettin shreded…
I’d also like to add that it seems that there were no goofy footers at Swamis…Is this common for Swamis? or are the goofys just hidden by the wave?
Goofs were going right…
I wasn’t there of course, but sometimes, beachbreaks set up one direction and not the other…at least for safe surfing.
Notice the whitewater on the wave previous to that sectioning left. Means it was a closeout…no taper.
Now look at the rights, look at the previous track of the whitewater. That should explain it.
Looks like I didn’t notice the white wash…I just saw that nice empty face.
I can keep dreaming though…
Goof pride.
surfed big burly river jetties with a friend and practically no one else out. the sand there is un belivable, made the paddle outs killer, timed my first wrong and got almost to the lineup when a set came in and broke way outside of me. pretty much dodged double overhead closeout sets and fought the current for two hours. going retro tomorrow with a borrowed 7’6" single fin cause my shorty isnt cutting it in the current.
Checked swamis this morning: absolute circus. I couldn’t believe the number of kooks dropping in. Drove south instead. Only a handfull of guys out as getting in was rough and the paddle was 1/4 mile or more. The one break in the area that really held it, albeit much smaller than the surrounding spots is pictured below. I won’t name it, as its not a circus down there, and hopefully never will be. You guys will recognize it if you surf there.
Paddled out here at about 11:30 or twelve. only 10 to 15 guys out, clean, clean lefts. Wouldn’t say it was as good as swamis looked, but then again, I didn’t have to worry about getting killed by some jerk on a pop out fun board. The older experienced guys were killing it on thick 8’6s. Some 50 year old guy treated a few set waves DOH or better like a 6 foot beach break.
Saw 2 guys almost drown on rocks and there were 5-6 rescues while I was out.
So if I was standing 75 feet from the guys in the foreground, and the guy in the white shirt beside the pole is 5’11", how big is the wave 1/3 of a mile out there? lol
last one is la jolla, most of the reefs looked maxxed and unmakeable paddle. only 2 or 3 guys out at windan near sunset, if that tells you anything.
wild, wild day.
be safe tomorrow!
Thats just about as big as ive seen SoCal…Were going through a long period of extra large to giant swells here in Hawaii.
Washington was huge today.
Rode my first self-shaped/glassed board.
It worked better than any dream.
The water wasn’t too cold.
The wind was 20 knots offshore.
Glad I glassed with 6oz.
My photos are film and will be processed later today.
cardiff now, 7:30 am
Swamis…
Further North…
Some photos from Campus Point, UCSB:
http://members.cox.net/mpetracca/122205/_local_122205.htm
And video of a rescue in San Diego:
http://media.putfile.com/South-SD-rescue-me
I heard Rincon was all-time. Love to see some shots of that…anyone?
I just saw that vid of the rescue…WTF, maybe if the guy put his feet down he could have walked in on the nice sand beach. The only reason I can tell that the lifeguard saved him was to make sure that the cop wrote him a ticket for jumping off the pier. Get that guys name and make sure he never goes to Hawaii.