I flew from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara yesterday at dawn. As I got up to the deep canyon off the farm fields I could see it was a white christmas. C street had classic lines in the firing offshore winds. Then the overhead was in view with it’s classic reef showing signs of cold head hold downs. Needless to say the high tide at Rincon looked classic. As I got closer to S.B. it was smaller at the meadow, but good. The only problem is that my wetsuit and boards are locked up in my shop, and I left my key with someone who left town for the holidays. I 'll have to leave it to mind surfing. What are the conditions around the world? Merry Christmas , Skip
here’s a postcard from south florida - flat as grandma’s pumpkin pie. merry christmas everyone! from the tiny tim capital of surfing. http://www.music-videos.net/miami_beach/mbeach/lat001.jpg
Hi Skip! It’s Huge here in Fort Bragg. Nice shape though. 51 degree water temp. You gotta have alot of balls to paddle out here most days! Leslie
I flew from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara yesterday at dawn. As I got up to > the deep canyon off the farm fields I could see it was a white christmas. > C street had classic lines in the firing offshore winds. Then the overhead > was in view with it’s classic reef showing signs of cold head hold downs. > Needless to say the high tide at Rincon looked classic. As I got closer to > S.B. it was smaller at the meadow, but good. .Got down to Seal Beach at appox. 12.30pm. slight onshore tide rising and a 2-4ft. swell and only 15 out. Was crowded earlier as the tide came in the swells continued to rise next to the pier the left was firing me and Tim Dorsey who still doesn’t wear a wetsuit water was 58 degrees but it was sunny and calm winds…Caught 6-8 ft. faces on my 5.10" Dyno fish. Some hairy take offs with some wild floaters and bottom turns…It’s like the board paddles in and doesn’t pearl and makes the bottom turns deep in da pit! Some crazy rides Tim Dorsey says to me after a nice glassy left, " that was a really nice left you had Ray" Got in early head high lined up left and fired as fast as I could up down and all around! Merry X-Mas you filthy animals…2001 was one of the best ever…The Ham and goodies afterward was the products of the lord as were the waves today…Rejoice all is good!
The Christmas surf in the Netherlands is very cold and windy, wind from the northwest blows in cold weather from Norway, this means it’s gonna snow again. Went surfing monday and had to suit up in the snow, driving home is painful these days, your whole body starts to tingle ( don’t know if this is the right word for it but it hurts like hell). Don’t worry, Your body functions are operational again after a long hot bath. The good side is, there are only four guys in, 6 ft faces, it’s not that windy yet, so go in or go home, if I tell you I went in, does that make me insane. After 21 years and winters I’m still as fanatical addicted as if I where when the bug bit me. Wel after 40 minutes the wind came in, so that was it, went in to put on my clothes again, bare feet in the snow. Wish for spring and summer, going to france/spain and portugal again, can’t wait ot go. Happy surfing all, Greetz Peter Rijk.
I flew from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara yesterday at dawn. As I got up to > the deep canyon off the farm fields I could see it was a white christmas. > C street had classic lines in the firing offshore winds. Then the overhead > was in view with it’s classic reef showing signs of cold head hold downs. > Needless to say the high tide at Rincon looked classic. As I got closer to > S.B. it was smaller at the meadow, but good.>>> The only problem is that my wetsuit and boards are locked up in my shop, > and I left my key with someone who left town for the holidays. I 'll have > to leave it to mind surfing.>>> What are the conditions around the world?>>> Merry Christmas , Skip My Christmas present came a few days earlier on the 22 at my favorite semi secret north shore spot. It looked almost flat at first light but a couple of two footers coming thru every once in a while was enough to entice me out to the empty line up. After catching a few of the small, clean peelers I paddled out to a shoulder high set…cool. After a few more of those, a slightly overhead set came thru stoking the four of us in the lineup. The four of us shared the line up for a few more hours till the crowds came, but by then we had had the time of our lives. My daughters 9’0" worked like a dream and held in thru a few hollow inside tubes that I thought would have me eating reef. Thank You to the MAN up there!!! Aloha, FD