This is the kind of thing that really gets me stoked.
Being able to connect with the past directly and to the people who lived it and feel the stoke. This isn’t a book either. More like in college when we had a guest speaker or visiting artist and had Q&A.
You know what I just remembered? We had George Plimpton visit and lecture one evening, then had a wine and cheese thing after. It was fall 1973 when I was 18. He had just published Paper Lion where he trained with and QB’d the Detriot Lions in a live game on tv. I had a zinger for him that was killing me. So I screwed up my courage to talk to the huge pop egomaniac and asked him if he had any plans to try surfing giant Banzai Pipeline? He looked at me for a second like I had two heads. Then he said where’s that? We got into a brief discussion abou big wave surfing and I mentioned some of my heros and the convesation concluded with him saying said no, too dangerous and laughed. Got him. It’s safer to play pro football…in front of millions on TV than risk it all alone in big surf. It all comes down to what we really got. Only two things we really own in this world our word and our balls. I knew his limits. And forever after so did he. But for me, an adrenaline junky stuck in a small upstate NY college looking for kicks, zinging the egos of pop icons passed for fun. That was then, when the few guys I really respected were Gerry Lopez and the Pipe crew. When I finally met Gerry for the first time as few years ago all I could say was nothing.
I feel now like I missed a lot doing the school thing the way I did instead of following my surfing. But no matter where I went and whatever I did I did it as a surfer. Whatever that means.
Okay I’m back Bill. I especially liked the eureka when you figured out what was really going on.
“The truth is that because of the thick foiled fin, and its’ laminar flow charecteristics, the board did not bleed off speed in the cutback turn as I was used to. Instead of leaning back to stay with the slowing board, I now had to lean forward to stay with the board going through turns.”
Any time we can increase speed by slight shifts in weight is a good thing as long as the gear is there to deliver. Made me think. And it’s hard to get my mind around it all at once but that is what I’m after. That moment of total understanding. Like your eureka. You know, the moment after which you can look at anything and just know exactly how it works and combines with other parts of the design. So, that you can then say that works that works and that works, that that and that doesn’t so take that that that and that and bingo. It’s out there somewhere. The most excellent fin.
To tell the truth I’m leaning in a direction where I don’t see any fins. And if I ever get it done it’s going to be so simple everyone’s going to say why didnt I think of that? But it’s not coming together all that simple really.
I can see parts come together in my mind, but I can’t hold them long enough to work the other parts in and hold them too. And that is why I started this thread. I’m searching for the lost chord so to speak. Time to break out the sketch pad and charcoal, I guess.
I posed a question in my reply to Tubedog and now I’m wondering if it’s kind of off a little. Now I’m wondering if slight shifts produce speed what do big shifts do given the same gear? Can we design for both? Or do we lose too much going for one result at the expense of the other.
Surfing currently is about big flashy moves. How do we design for that? Which is better in that light thick or thin?
Or for more mellow riding can we design specifically for that too?
Exploring.
I like your round table idea, Bill. Why, if I was in So. Cal…but I am not. However, if you have any more fin or board eureka flashbacks throw them right here. I’m listening. Mark